SR20VET or DET for the S13?

DDislex66622 Aug 2007, 16:41

250wkw....

do you know what you gonna need to get that type of power?

My car makes roughly that. And that's on high boost - which i've had the car run for about 2-3 minutes in TOTAL.

If you want that type of power i'd really suggest you get the RB. Or aim lower

TThe Calibrator22 Aug 2007, 16:55

CA has direct valve on lifter action, SR has rocker arms limiting max revs
CA has a cast iron block for strength, SR is aluminium to save weight.
CA uses a timing belt, SR has a timing chain for less maintainence.
.
But hey, it looks like you've made up your own mind, sell me your CA.

HAve you ever revved a CA to 9000rpm? I have revved SR's to that and over 8000 consistently. You will never rev a street car that high unless you have HUGE cams. so its not a point.

When was the last time you heard of or saw a SR20 block cracking in a street car?
I believe NEVER
CAm chains have there advantages like they dont break unless you ignore the load noises for a long period of time.

Therefore I have to believe that none of your points are valid in this context.

Yes you can make 300kw from a CA as long as you run a T66 2.2 bar boost and jungle juice you must also be prepared for boost that starts at 5000rpm

Face it the CA is in the same league as ox wagons they work but we have moved on to better things.

vveecee22 Aug 2007, 17:38

LOL - interesting post!!!

you can make the power figures you're after in any of the motors suggested here!!! that being the CA, the SR, or the RB.

lets look at initial costs: (i'm talking engine importers fees)

CA - R6000 (engine, no gearbox)
SR - R8000 (engine, no gearbox)
RB - R10 000 (engine, no gearbox)

you already have a CA, so that will cost you nothing. but a rebuild will cost almost as much, if not slightly more than buying another import motor - maybe even as much getting an import SR!!!

but you dont seem happy with your current power, so the argument then is for the SR. in comparison, the stock SR puts out a lot more than the stock CA. so might satisfy your thirst for more power with an SR, but you still want a lot more than stock power, right? and that will take money!!! unfortunate, but true!

so my recommendation is this, get the RB. the stock RB in bruno's car is currently making 199rwkw's. there are some ancilliary upgrades, the major one being EMS, but for the most part the engine is still stock.

that RB of bruno's is as easy to drive as any stock standard 200sx, and its really quite quick. will give a hiding to many other sx's that i know!!!

you can have that for a base price of R10k.

now I haven't mentioned other costs here, i know that, but if you're going with anything else but a CA, you will have other costs that wont differ too much between the two engines.

you will still need:

EMS
gearbox
wiring
radiator
etc

so also dont forget about the other costs.

TThe Calibrator22 Aug 2007, 17:55

RB= Good power
Rb= costalot you can double the cost of the motor and then add some more if you want it done properly
Rb= not one single spare part in stock anywhere in the country.

You can argue all you like but for ease of fitment, power and availability of parts local and imported you cannot beat the SR.
Now if we were in say Australia I would be singing a different tune.

vveecee22 Aug 2007, 18:03

fokit - he's right.

just go get a 1uzfe like i said on page 1!!! LOL.

toyota rocks!!! (and nissan sx stripes are gay)

DDoctor G22 Aug 2007, 19:13

SR20DE RWD N/A motor - R3950
SR20DET gearbox - R2900
Forged pistons - R4.5k
Forged rods - R4k
Bearings, ARP studs, Gaskets - R5k
Bigger injedetors - R2.5k
Turbo - R12k
FMIC - R3k
Radiator - R1.5k?
EMS - R7.5k (fitted)
20v VE head - R10k (complete motor)

eish, met ys ja 😕

SSokar22 Aug 2007, 20:57

Sokar wrote:

The ONLY 2 factors a CA has against it is age and availability of parts.

The Calibrator wrote:

Face it the CA is in the same league as ox wagons they work but we have moved on to better things.

You're falling behind again...

My main point is he HAS a CA, its in the car, its running. If you're going to go through all the effort of doing an engine swap, new wiring, new management etc etc etc, why not put in a motor that will realistically meet his goal?

The Calibrator wrote:

Rb= costalot you can double the cost of the motor and then add some more if you want it done properly

I think to get an SR to that kind of power you're going to be spending close to that amount of money...

At the end of the day I'm not here to convince the dude or spoon feed him, he can do whatever the hell he likes, its his money, but he's the one that put a poll up on the subject, not me.

SSokar22 Aug 2007, 21:01

All these:

SR20DE RWD N/A motor - R3950
SR20DET gearbox - R2900
Forged pistons - R4.5k
Forged rods - R4k
Bearings, ARP studs, Gaskets - R5k
Bigger injedetors - R2.5k
Turbo - R12k
FMIC - R3k
Radiator - R1.5k?
EMS - R7.5k (fitted)

Excluding the VE Head is R46k and some change.
Thats the price of a Skyline GTS-T RB25 Front Clip landed here, in fact I think its even cheaper than that, that should include everything you need excl a custom driveshaft.... Makes you think....

vveecee23 Aug 2007, 09:23

i know somebody who does those imports - engines, gearboxes and front clips if necessary.

a skyline R33 GTR front clip import is less than R20 000 at cost for the importers. in fact i think its closer to 14-15 thousand than 20 thousand.

so if you add profits and fees, you may be looking at getting an RB26dett front clip for less than 30 grand.

a GTS-t front clip may cost less than 20 grand!

i would definitely do that. everything is there for the swop. management, wiring, brakes, 5 lug hubs, engine and gearbox, filters, electronics, mounts, crossmembers, etc, etc!!!

jjap spec27 Aug 2007, 13:59

R33 front clip - R32000
R33 motor and box - R15 - R16000
R33 motor - R11000
RB26 motor and box - R25000...they dont really break them up, RB25 box bolts straight on aswell

vveecee27 Aug 2007, 14:15

well there you have it folks.

straight from the horses mouth - yes japspec, i may have called you a horse, but at least i didnt call you a donkey (an ass!!!)

anyway - i reckon using a front clip to do a swap is probably the best way to do a conversion like the rb25det.

you get everything you need that way, and you may be lucky enough to get some aftermarket bits too!!!

jjap spec27 Aug 2007, 15:48

I dont know so much... I got just the motor and box for 16k...im running the dictator system cos there's a guy down here who know's it well...cooler and thats it... fitting it is the expense or would be for an s13, but if you can sort that out...2k for management and it can run anything... looks its not as good as standard, but it beats going Autronic.... 18k box, motor and management....the rest is labour...and pipes.... i recon RB for any car...its seriously teh shit

vveecee27 Aug 2007, 15:51

i meant for the s13, the r33 front clip would be sweet.

for that cost you would get the motor and gearbox.

then you would get all the standard electronics, thats computer box and all the little peripherals, like injector resistor pack, coil amp, etc.

then you also get the stock 'cooler.

you also get the r33 front crossmember that allows to install the motor without much fabrication. sorted.

you would also get the bigger radiator from the r33.

to put the cherry on the cake, you would get the front calipers and discs, and you would be half way to doing a 5 stud hub conversion!

MHO!

jjap spec27 Aug 2007, 15:55

for sure....its just that some guys dont got 32k in one go... i recon though, that if someone was keen to get one of those motors, i would be keen to take the calipers off his hads for sure....and also recon that some other guys would want some other sneaks..

TThe Calibrator27 Aug 2007, 18:10

Last I heard it was illegal to import front clips into RSA

bbruno_miranda2627 Aug 2007, 18:55

Doctor G wrote:

The article stated that a CA20 crank is forged, unlike the CA18 unit? Is it 4cw or 8cw?

Bruno how much work was it to make the RB fit? Engine mountings etc? How much power can it handle before internals etc are needed?

If you use the R25DET gear box and the crossmember is not work at all, only the aircon motor mounts have to be re-welded for the pulleys to align, but other wise it took Manny Marinho 3 weeks(including the waiting from plumbing and Exhaust system that took 6 days) if you use the CA18 X-Member you have to build your own engine mounting which is not difficult if you know what you're doing(That was done in +- 4 hours) then my RB came with the complete harness which Manny cut it off to install a Gotech-Pro.
I've heard that the engine can do up to reliable 350KW, but you need to change injectors and BB/ceramic impeller turbo cos it can not handle more than 1 bar which is a shame coz that thing spools so quick 😈 , i've got 200KW on the RW at 0.7bar, i was told that if i had a bigger down pipe and 73mm system i could get a bit more out of it with the same 0.7bar.

Regarding to finding parts, i'll be amazed how many parts from the old RB30/RB20 fits on that engine, off course if you blow the engine might aswell get aftermarket stuff. 😈

jjap spec27 Aug 2007, 19:52

I know that most of the RB30 parts are bolt on onto the RB25....starter motors, aircon units the lot.... Even the RB25 turbo manifold bolts onto it if i recall...all teh guys overseas go RB30DET.....the head fromt he 25 even bolts onto the 30....love them skylines

vveecee28 Aug 2007, 10:12

thats good to know(about the parts interchangeability), but i guess its also an intuitive assumption!!!

i've driven bruno's car and words cant describe. if japspec's 'liner is similar then its gonna be awesome.

but G, its up to you man. i would love to see something different man. RB engines, UZ engines, etc. BUT, i guess the SR20 conversion is "something different" in this country cos most guys are still trying to extract CA power!!!

go with what you know!

DDoctor G28 Aug 2007, 15:22

VC first of all - PUT THAT HOOCH back in your signature!! 😛

Secondly, yes I also think that despite all the pro's and cons the VET still seems like a sweet option.

I can get a DET RWD bottom end (minus pistons and rods) for R1500. Some forged internals + a VET head and it's good to go. (ignoring the ovious custom work required and the millions of things that will need to be done to make it work) 😉

The DE RWD motor is R3900.

If I go the VET route it will be a long term project.

On the plus side. The 20V VET motor costs around R10k. Now given I will only use the head, bottom intake runners, oil and water pump from this motor it may seem expensive, but I thought about it and

The Head flows A LOT more than a DET head. I
t has some wicked cams in that head from stock. So you save on flowing/porting (R2500), cam gears (R3000) and aftermarket camsR4-5000).

vveecee28 Aug 2007, 18:29

sounds like you have your mind made up.

you go bbbbooooooiiiii!!!!!

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