Cams or Headwork...

Everytime I beat a 200sx I cut my hair like a mullet...
Which means I have a permanent mullet..

Phinx wrote:

Cant use the stock cams On extended valves.

But What do you guys think of ARP head bolts

Got some... Ask Calibrator they were a bitch to fit, had to mod a socket to fit in the head. But you can't go wrong with them, got a set from JGY Customs for $110 IIRC.

jon wrote:

😂 I love e-fights, pics of your mullet or ban.

this is all off-topic. careful, somebody may accuse you of spamming!

and i think you might find that his mullet looks a lot like the windows he makes!

Windows he makes? heh?

Stay on topic... Or I'll delete the threads start something under the lounge

Vlade wrote:

Stay on topic... Or I'll delete the threads start something under the lounge

i tried to the delete the threads, but it didnt work so well, so i just posted that comment!!!

Ok Heres the Deal.

Budget is bad, but I'm trying...

Will remove the head off my Spare Motor, Its going to get the Cleaned pressure tested and so on.

It will then get the valves extended and the cams re-profiled. 264 Maybe

and ARP head bolts on the stock HG...

Any help is welcome

Sounds good to me.

Please explain these extended valves. Who is going to regrind the cam for you?? Is there any real benefit with billet over a regrind??

Billet is the best ...

A regrind is "hillbilly" but I cant find billets.

An extended valve allows you to run a regrind with what ever lift you want.
Because when they regrind they cut away from the cam.

Billet is the best ...

Why??

An extended valve allows you to run a regrind with what ever lift you want.
Because when they regrind they cut away from the cam.

Ok but how do you know how much to extend them by??

jon wrote:

😂 I love e-fights, pics of your mullet or ban.

thats determined by the people doing the head.
And also the lift specified.

Yes but the valve still needs to be able to seat correctly. I must find out more about this.

I say get a quote from Sportflow to do the head and maybe larger valves if there is room.

I have a flowed CA18DE head that has a slight leak on cylinder 4. Can be fixed apparently. I'd be willing to let it go too 🙂

When you do the headwork, you can always add a CA16 inlet cam for extra 0.8mm lift and 8deg more duration.

If you're lucky enough to find a pre 90 model CA18 inlet cam it has 256 duration.

IIRC - i think phinx already has ca18de cams in there!!!

veecee wrote:

IIRC - i think phinx already has ca18de cams in there!!!

Which ones? The late model CA18 cams are supposedly the same as the det. All exhasut cams are also the same fro all CA16-CA18De and Det afaik.

You also need the CA16 cam gear else your timing is nearly a tooth out.

But What do you guys think of ARP head bolts

Surely you mean Head studs?

How many sets of billet cams do you want and in what duration?

R4000 a set

Doctor G wrote:

veecee wrote:

IIRC - i think phinx already has ca18de cams in there!!!

Which ones? The late model CA18 cams are supposedly the same as the det. All exhasut cams are also the same fro all CA16-CA18De and Det afaik.

You also need the CA16 cam gear else your timing is nearly a tooth out.

set the cam timing a tooth out then 😉

Surely you mean Head studs?

How many sets of billet cams do you want and in what duration?

R4000 a set

Good to hear Calibrator, Maybe you can help me out in my new post.
Calibrator do you still have that set of cams for R 3000 ?

I have a Ca18DE (Jap Spec) cam, it has a longer duration then the Ca16de cam and the same lift.

Also you only need to go a tooth out when you use an exhaust cam on the intake side

I have a Ca18DE (Jap Spec) cam, it has a longer duration then the Ca16de cam and the same lift.

Did it make much difference from STD???