Project F

SSokar30 Oct 2007, 10:22

Hmmm,

If the cas is aligned then the car should at least stay idling, unless the cam is a tooth out, but you're happy you got that right. Is there a way you can bypass or switch off your Unichip? Just to test?

Also I dont think the lifters would have drained by themselves unless you cycled the motor alot, that might have pumped the oil out, but lifters are easy to fix and they dont make the motor "not run" so concentrate on the running problems first, worry about lifters later.

CChemCooladmin30 Oct 2007, 10:23

your Unichip? Just to test?

yes, this is something to consider.

DDanielmoderator30 Oct 2007, 12:16

Have you had a look at your air regulator?

I had a similiar problem when i changed engines

VVladeadmin30 Oct 2007, 12:41

Think we must hold a bring and braai and fix... Hey Freddy but a couple of heads together and fix it... I think its electrical...

That knock that one is hearing can also be slow ping... When I tried to install my Wolf on my own, my engine sounded exactly the same when I tried to start it.

vveecee30 Oct 2007, 15:11

IIRC - knocking, or a slow ping as vlade puts it, will cause hte engine to go into limp mode.

this means you wont be able to rev up but it should still idle.

so am i correct in assuming the engine now drives fine, the missing is gone, and the problem is now the idling????

CChemCooladmin30 Oct 2007, 20:46

so am i correct in assuming the engine now drives fine, the missing is gone, and the problem is now the idling????

Yip, some horses are awake! But with hydraulic lifters still not settled down.

Chem 8)

vveecee30 Oct 2007, 21:13

ChemCool wrote:

so am i correct in assuming the engine now drives fine, the missing is gone, and the problem is now the idling????

Yip, some horses are awake! But with hydraulic lifters still not settled down.

Chem 8)

you not gonna like my advice...

but its time to open them tappet covers again. take out the cams (watch those timing marks). take out the lifters...

and bleed them nicely before installing them again.

i did this with my engine, and i replaced those collapsed ones at the same time. it works wonders dude.

also - this is time consuming hey. it took about 45mins - 1 hour to properly bleed all exhaust lifters (only 8 of them BTW!!!) until they had absolutely no air in them.

but i reckon it was worth it!!! 😉

who knows??? maybe you'll find that chainsaw at the same time!!!

and if all else fails call anglegrinderboy!!!! he's also good with that stuff!!! 😂 😂 😂

SSokar30 Oct 2007, 22:07

veecee wrote:

and if all else fails call anglegrinderboy!!!! he's also good with that stuff!!! 😂 😂 😂

Not to mention I taught you how to bleed your lifters 😛

vveecee31 Oct 2007, 20:39

Sokar wrote:

veecee wrote:

and if all else fails call anglegrinderboy!!!! he's also good with that stuff!!! 😂 😂 😂

Not to mention I taught you how to bleed your lifters 😛

i beg to differ!!!

you told me how before i could work it out...

BUT, i valued the advice on how to do it while sitting on my comfortable garden chair, in my garage, with one hand in a tub of clean engine oil, the other hand holding a tall staunch vodka and coke (met eish!), and still being able to light a cigarette, and listen to my favourite music, while talking shit about cars all day with my best buds!!!

that was awesome!!!!

VVladeadmin01 Nov 2007, 20:46

met eish ja... 8) yoh need to sort out this craving...

CChemCooladmin01 Nov 2007, 22:25

Remember the water leak that dissappeared? Well, well well. 😮 😮 😮
I now just hope I did not end up with more damage. Temp meter did not go up. Water steamed the whole engine bay etc. etc. etc..... 😮

Now I know where the water leak is... 🙄

Chem 😢

VVladeadmin02 Nov 2007, 06:38

Yip behind every dark cloud there is a silver lining 😉

EEro_sennin02 Nov 2007, 07:40

ChemCool wrote:

Remember the water leak that dissappeared? Well, well well. 😮 😮 😮
I now just hope I did not end up with more damage. Temp meter did not go up. Water steamed the whole engine bay etc. etc. etc..... 😮

Now I know where the water leak is... 🙄

Chem 😢

that happened to me once, temp gauge did not move, then HG went

DDracomoderator02 Nov 2007, 08:16

Ero_sennin wrote:

ChemCool wrote:

Remember the water leak that dissappeared? Well, well well. 😮 😮 😮
I now just hope I did not end up with more damage. Temp meter did not go up. Water steamed the whole engine bay etc. etc. etc..... 😮

Now I know where the water leak is... 🙄

Chem 😢

that happened to me once, temp gauge did not move, then HG went

This is very worrying....why would the temp guege work fine before and then suddenly.... 🙄 o sheet

EEro_sennin02 Nov 2007, 08:34

Draco wrote:

This is very worrying....why would the temp guege work fine before and then suddenly.... 🙄 o sheet

The radiator was leaking, think that had something to do with it, but that was long ago on my CA

GGary5702 Nov 2007, 08:34

Because your tempreture gauge works off the water tempreture, if there is no water the gauge cant work. That is why Ferarri's AND Alfa's (yes VC Alfa's) use oil tempreture as tempreture gauge or have a seperate gauge for that.

😢 I miss my oil temp gauge 😢

DDracomoderator02 Nov 2007, 08:37

Freddy....hear what I said....Ero just confirmed what I speculated.

WWooHaa02 Nov 2007, 11:48

Gary57 wrote:

Because your tempreture gauge works off the water tempreture, if there is no water the gauge cant work. That is why Ferarri's AND Alfa's (yes VC Alfa's) use oil tempreture as tempreture gauge or have a seperate gauge for that.

😢 I miss my oil temp gauge 😢

That would cause you not too have a leak.
no water in the system.
gary is 100% right.

CChemCooladmin02 Nov 2007, 15:34

So ,if there is no water in the system, why does the meter still display normal temp and not falling down to zero??? What is it reading then? Hot air?

DDracomoderator02 Nov 2007, 15:38

Ok now i understand what you meant, the heat guege went to the normal temp but did not show that it was overheating.....that makes more sense, now I am even more worried....

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