Wastegate welded shut?
Does it have an external wastegate? (I cannot see one in the photos)
Since the previous owner left a redundant dump valve there I am starting to see what kind of car you bought.....hope you get it sorted and do a better job than the previous owner.
Jaco1981 wrote:
PS, is it normal for this setup to have the waste gate on the turbo itself welded shut?
No its not, do you have a pic of that?
Enzio wrote:
Since the previous owner left a redundant dump valve there I am starting to see what kind of car you bought.....hope you get it sorted and do a better job than the previous owner.
I was aiming for a stock one, but gave up after a few months. This one is not to far gone, well, it looked that way when I bought it.
Charlvdw wrote:
No its not, do you have a pic of that?
Think that might have been a false alarm. Will confirm it when the injectors are back in
Only reason one would weld the wastegate closed is if u using a external wastegate but that's not the best move send more pics
Ok, so I took the injectors to SAC, they advertise on their website, that they can refurbish injectors. They then told me that they need to send it to JHB. So eventually we spoke on Friday, they said they cant repair it, its to far gone. I'm a bit confused, but ok.
Do you guys know any other places around Cape town that can have a look at injectors?
I saw on Facebook a guy somewhere upcountry, breaking a SX. Contacted him. Sold me the injectors, fuel rail and regulator. Made payment today and waiting for it to arrive. Hope they are in better shape!!
Go to your nearest Bosch service centre. They do the ultrasonic cleaning, flow testing and repairs.
Enzio wrote:
Go to your nearest Bosch service centre. They do the ultrasonic cleaning, flow testing and repairs.
Thank you very much, will do that once my set have been returned.
Ok, so the injectors came, turn out to be the wrong injectors, and dont even fit the rail :facepalm:
So, moving on. Does anyone here have a set of stock injectors they want to sell?
I have a set they need new o rings
This is so strange. The guy I took my injectors to, phoned me now and told me, he had the injectors at 6 bar and it did not drip, according to him, they are not in bad shape and only need a good cleaning. He also replaced the caps (those caps on the manifold side. Will have them back by Friday.
So now, the question is this, how does the petrol get into the oil? If its not the injectors dripping and the motor is not overfueling...... :?: :?: :?:
impossible
SonOfAnarchy ZA wrote:
impossible
Thats what I said......
Is it possible that the car can sometimes overfuel and sometimes not?
Maybe the air flow meter or heat sensor gives inconsistent readings?? What is the possibility of that??
Ja it may be worth changing your water temp and cleaning your afm
SonOfAnarchy ZA wrote:
Ja it may be worth changing your water temp and cleaning your afm
I did clean the AFM, but it could still be half broken... the AFR gauge in the car is not working properly, or so it seems. Someone once said it is a narrow band something something, so I assume I can swap out the probe for a wide band one??? If I can get that to work properly, then I would be able to tell when or if its running rich or not. The temp sensor, is that on the intake?
Here's that video again, AFR gauge not working so well :x
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcoJxgnSG2o&feature=youtu.be
Not dripping at 6 bar? Who the hell did you take it to?
Did you get a flow test report?
Enzio wrote:
Not dripping at 6 bar? Who the hell did you take it to?
Did you get a flow test report?
place called Cape injector centre. He phoned me yesterday, so not reports, just a phone call.
A wideband consists out of a 5/6 wire probe and a controller. If you have that you can wire you current gauge to the narrow band output of the controller.
I would just get a complete setup including a proper gauge, like this:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php
I think I know what the problem is.
A really nasty backyard hack to control boost if you don't have a proper wategate is to add a second dump valve. You don't connect it to a boost/vacuum source and just set the preload to open up at the boost you want.
I suspect they did that on your car, cause it's not connected to a boost/vacuum source and the wastegate flap is welded shut.
So your turbo is basically boosting all it can and you venting all but 0.8bar to atmo. This is probably maxing out your AFM and the chip is clamping the AFM volts to stop boost cut and guessing the final mixture.
Also...I think the inconsistent idle is caused by the crap quality dump valve that doesn't always seat properly when the piston returns, thus causing air to enter your motor without being measured by the AFM.
Hope this makes sense...lol
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Nissan_Fanatic wrote:
I think I know what the problem is.
A really nasty backyard hack to control boost if you don't have a proper wategate is to add a second dump valve. You don't connect it to a boost/vacuum source and just set the preload to open up at the boost you want.
I suspect they did that on your car, cause it's not connected to a boost/vacuum source and the wastegate flap is welded shut.So your turbo is basically boosting all it can and you venting all but 0.8bar to atmo. This is probably maxing out your AFM and the chip is clamping the AFM volts to stop boost cut and guessing the final mixture.
Also...I think the inconsistent idle is caused by the crap quality dump valve that doesn't always seat properly when the piston returns, thus causing air to enter your motor without being measured by the AFM.
Hope this makes sense...lol
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That kind of makes sense. I think
The injectors is going back in tonight, so hope it will be running soon and then I can take it to someone that could have a look.
What will happen, if I remove the disconnected dump valve and seal the hole in the pipe?
That is what I would suggest, but be VERY carefull...you will have NO boost control.
Do that and drive it around without going into boost and check for idle quality and fuel consumption...also a working wideband AFR gauge will be very helpful now.
You can try going into boost a little bit, but your foot will be the boost controller so be very careful and watch the boost gauge closely.
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