Gary, don't you have water/meth? Maybe you need to add another injector closer to the throttle body like what ChemCool did? He gets very low IAT. Or if yours is close to the TB, add another one just after the turbo.
Overheating
@ Speed Breaker, I am using the stock radiator.
@ Toby, Yes I do have water/meth but doesnt inject perminantly, only about 3000rpm, 0.6 bar and 50% throttle.
I have seen guys that seperate the stock air box position from the engine bay, I think this would be the best answer providing you have proper ventilation for the filter. There is a drawing of the plate floating around the net somewhere.
here we go again...
I think I believe the 10kw-20k story however, even if it was just sales talk
Other cone filters without cold air induction would definately get heat soaked after the first 10 or even 5km of driving...
THe fact is the filter will stay colder and this is a solution to the described problem in stead of looking at other items, which I may add have not received as much research and development.
VC - 10-20kw is all you need, Is that what Murphy told you??? 😮 🙄
10 Kw 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
Sorry did I post that ...
10 Kw 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
Sorry did I post that... ?
Look you will be lucky to get 5 Kw with no boost or timing increase
And
And I also agree with Gary regarding breathing through a straw... unless the pipe is tapered, which will waste a lot of space...
Will get hot quicker and also be very restrictive...
64mm intake piping will flow more then enough air for 250RWKW and considering most Ca18det's have a 54mm TB and a 50mm hot pipe and a 45 mm Air flow meter and a, I don’t think you intake will be holding you back unless its covered in 90 degree bends and remember any piping connected in series will only flow as much as it smallest radius
Now wrapping you piping might look ugly to sum but it looks like power to me.
Now wrapping you piping might look ugly to sum but it looks like power to me.
Well said.
[img][img]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh27/Slide_em_Wide/uas_cab_r33_gtst.jpg[/img]
This is what i will do when i get the cone filter, I have also seen it done in clear perspex and aluminum and it looked hot!
No stress about extra piping. [/img]
beadspreeder, murphy doesnt tell me fogol!!! he's just like chuck - he waits!!!
as for 10-20kw's on the wheels - i'm with phinx! 5kw's on the fly is a big achievement with a filter. all the reading i've ever done has had about 3hp on average increase on the flywheel! i'm not saying the BMC are crap at all - i just think those figures are exaggerated.
regardless - the pic that slide'em posted is awesome. both functional and pretty! somebody DO IT!
and... damn skylines are so hot!
if only I could undo the post and not have had you upset on valentines day...
from a secret admirer
dont worry speedbread! i know its you!
i'm upset everyday, so yesterday was nothing new!
what gave me away...
take a disprin and roekeloos and cure that damn headache you keep having...
I must say....I replaced my OEM filter with a BMC and did a dyna....I got 5kw on the wheels more....to me that was nothing but I suppose if you pay thousands to get a 20kw on the wheels increase it's not a bad mod....as well....the more mods you do the more a OEM filter restricts the FLOOOOWWWW you need from the intake....
Thats my view...use it...don't use it...if you have a wise crack to get rid of....keep it in the bullshit section.... 😉
Draco there are so many things that can change the power on a dyno, engine temp, humidity, oil viscosity, etc. So by saying you got 5Kw on the wheels more is very vague because the conditions were different between the 2 runs.
Very true Gary, for all I know I could have gotton 5kw less because of all the different conditions...the point is because I had more air there was a gain, again no scientific results to compare to....just what I did and the result....
What do u guys think about those R100 heat shields that u can buy for ur filter? Do u think they even make any difference?
nope, But it can stop some radiant heat
Phinx wrote:
nope, But it can stop some radiant heat
so it can make a difference then??? 😕
Nope not when the under bonnet temp is 35 C +.
It helps, the same way “Disprin” helps for a bullet wound
Thats all fine and well, the conditions may have changed and that would effect na cars to a larger extent than a turbo car. your power increase or decrease as a result of atmospheric pressure and air temp, humidity etc. is far less on a turbo. The case in point is you take a na car from jhb ( I helped sasol and toyota in the preparation of a 1600 conquest) the average increase in power on the coast is between 15 & 17%. At the same time i had a chat to the subaru mechanics and the figures the got was between 2 & 4%.
What im getting to is that if the ambient conditions did change i feel that the power increase was as a result of the turbo sucking more air and not the air itself. About the oil viscosity, If the car was at operation temp, the oil will be within its prime viscosity level(assuming you use the same oil and dont run your car on the dyno when its cold)
Gary wrote:
Draco there are so many things that can change the power on a dyno, engine temp, humidity, oil viscosity, etc. So by saying you got 5Kw on the wheels more is very vague because the conditions were different between the 2 runs.
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