Highboost wrote:
Good, let me know !!!
Maybe we should design/make our own BOV....
mmm.... sounds interesting.
Will do man!
Project - Evil D (L28... err... RB25 scratch that CA18.... nope wrong again swapped SilEighty)
🚗 This is the build story for a car in the registry: 1991 SilEighty
what I was trying to say is if your dump valve had a allen key bolt like this, you tighten it and more vacuum is needed to open it on idle.
If your dump valve looked like this....it was not nessesary to open it....
aha... ok cool... yeah mine doesn't have that... this is how mine looks:
Draco wrote:
what I was trying to say is if your dump valve had a allen key bolt like this, you tighten it and more vacuum is needed to open it on idle.
If your dump valve looked like this....it was not nessesary to open it....
my looks nearly like that, not that loud
It depends how you set it....try different settings on the bolt....mine is quite loud....with my windows closed I hear it easely over the engine noise.
Mine is not set that stif(bolt not turned in too much, just enough so that the vacuum can not open it on idle).
rat wrote:
Draco wrote:
what I was trying to say is if your dump valve had a allen key bolt like this, you tighten it and more vacuum is needed to open it on idle.
If your dump valve looked like this....it was not nessesary to open it....
my looks nearly like that, not that loud
so you have one of those and one like mine? sold my old one to Trance...
didnt buy the ssq
rat wrote:
didnt buy the ssq
oh... 😳
Here you go....
Just stretched the spring a bit... will test tomorrow after I gone my thumb molested.... 😈 😈
Just be careful with streching, it will over time return to the original position. You streched in one direction, but when you replace it it's under constant pressure in the oppisite direction, which will make it go back to where it was over time. 😕
Try putting something between the spring and the silver cover. those big washers, that look like shims will work.
Also make sure where the VALVE seat it does so properly all around a leak there can also cause this.
The vacuum pipe you used does not have a one way valve in it somewhere??? Cause remeber in boost there is also positive pressure on the dump valve forcing it to stay closed. Now if there is only vacuum the pressure in your intake will force the dumpvalve open if there is not positive (boost) pressure on the other side too. It uses 0.5-0.8 bar vacuum to open, so if no pressure - 0.8bar boost will also push it open for sure unless you have boost presure from the other side.
Secondly does the vacuum pipe you use not leak under positive pressure? Vacuum sucks the pipe the the fittings, boost tries to push it off..... I always used cable ties around my vacuum pipes to ensure the seal.
ah...
well here is what I did today....
Before:
After:
Think this looks much better than stock... what do you dudes/ladie/s think?
that is cool!
i remember that i did this mod to my car ages ago!
its funny how you forget this stuff once its done!
teach me
veecee wrote:
that is cool!
i remember that i did this mod to my car ages ago!
its funny how you forget this stuff once its done!
hehe nice VC! yeah think its a nice and easie mod to do... it also helps if you have all the correct plugs etc... 😀 😀
rat wrote:
teach me
Will take a bit more tech pics tonite. but its quite simple actually. it just depends if you want to use it for brake and tail light or just the one or the other...
but yeah... i'll take indepth pics tonite, just for you rat. 😉
thx 😉
Rat do you mind if i have a peek as well? 😀
Charlvdw wrote:
Rat do you mind if i have a peek as well? 😀
depends whats in it for me *evil laugh*
hey.... i want at least a 30% cut of whatever rats getting... 😀 😂 😂
The whole job took about an hour or so to complete.
Basically what i did was the following:
Plug out the the two tail light plugs from the fittings.
Seperate the wires.
wires:
red/green - tail light
red/blue - brake light
black - ground
green/yellow - Indicator (i think its g/y but might be only green too...)
Now you need to cut into these wires, and then wrap another wire around them and extend it
Then get a car light fitting that looks like this. I used the S14 one that I got with that massive wiring harness i bought.
Now those fittings you have - take them and soldier the wires together, so the brake light to brake light etc. you won't be using the indicator wire, so just leave it.
Now for fitting the brackets etc...
For the right hand side I just used the light bracket already there...
just attached the new light fitting and unplugged the fog light plug.
don't think you really need the fog light... especially when your running dual light setup...
On the left I needed to build something to make it fit... this is what oyu can do: get a piece of hardboard, mark it out and then cut it to size, use the foglight fitting to do the measurements... fit the light bracket to the cutout and then use 4 screws to secure in the hole.
I didn't need to do that though... used a spare fitting i had
then after all is connected... test it.
it should come out like mine did.
thats way too complicated!
i found an original fitting from an s13, added a globe, and soldered two wires (each globe) i think!
veecee wrote:
thats way too complicated!
i found an original fitting from an s13, added a globe, and soldered two wires (each globe) i think!
hehe... true...
did yours work just for tail lights or just brake lights? or both?
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