rather use the correct stuff
redline waterwetter.
Agreed.
rather use the correct stuff
redline waterwetter.
Agreed.
Hennie Marais wrote:
rather use the correct stuff
redline waterwetter.
That is?
Hennie Marais wrote:
rather use the correct stuff
redline waterwetter.
Ahmen, someone with common intelligence.
DO NOT put brake fluid in your radiator, someone probably told you this thinking you also think you must check the halogen fluid in your head lights or your exhaust bearings. It is a BAD idea and you will more than likely hurt yourself or your car, better yet would be finding hoses to support this, Sulphur and peroxide cured hoses will not work, silicon will also break down.
Your theory about why you shouldn’t drive a car hard when its cold is incorrect, its got nothing to do with gaskets, its got to do with oil viscosity and mechanical clearances between different materials, such as aluminium pistons in cast iron bores, bearings, etc.
The best way to cool your whole system down is straight water, this how ever has no corrosion inhibitors and will require draining after each use (as race cars do), one of the best ways to get the best of both worlds is to flush your whole system out and use 70% distilled water and 30% of GOOD antifreeze along with one bottle of redline or similar product that reduces the surface tension of the water.
This is an improvement though and not a solution to a car that’s radiator is either blocked, stuff water pump or thermostat or is making to much power for the radiator to support.
Lastly, you guys should not even joke about HTH!, people here that are not very bright might actualy try it,,, even 50/50 coolant will set it off and more than likely cause extensive vehicle and personal dammage!!!
Ok...read about the water wetter....
here is one of the links....
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redline-waterwetter®-review/
clearly clutch fluid is also to risky.....so....that meens we will run hot for ever....maby get the mix tight like raw said and so on....in the end...it gets got and you screwed.....funny....we land on the moon and create all these wonderful things....but heat still screws us over....
well so much for exploring.....
Thanks for everybodies input.....the clutch fluid thing is aparently another load of bad opinion....
I laughed so hard when I saw this...
This person probably made the reasoning that because breakfluid has a higher boiling point its a better coolant, but it just isnt...
Feel free to try this and claim your "I told you so" via PM to me at any time, I'll be chilling with the other guys trying to not re-invent the wheel and that are enjoying our working radiators....
P.S, Draco, this wasnt directed at you, you were only asking, I know. It wasnt directed at anyone in particular, well, maybe to the people who cant see why this is hogwash...
Draco wrote:
Ok...read about the water wetter....
here is one of the links....
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redline-waterwetter®-review/
clearly clutch fluid is also to risky.....so....that meens we will run hot for ever....maby get the mix tight like raw said and so on....in the end...it gets got and you screwed.....funny....we land on the moon and create all these wonderful things....but heat still screws us over....
well so much for exploring.....
Thanks for everybodies input.....the clutch fluid thing is aparently another load of bad opinion....
Remember this:
Engines make power by converting BTU's of heat into working energy, the more heat you take out of the motor the more BTU's of possible "working" energy you loose. There is a reason near all automotive manufactures strive for right around 90deg inlet temp.... its not to make your car hot or overheat 😉
Use it, dont use it.
I understad all the experts opinions....what we don't know we say is bull...thats the way it will always be....
Sometimes exploring could get some results we said never possible...but as rightly stated....I am not gonna test something like this....this is a test for someone with money....if they could get their heads out of the box.... 😉
Just for interest sake......here is the link that started all the exploring...and thinking out of the box...
http://www.speedandsound.co.za/site/2008/09/why-satish%e2%80%99s-car-is-so-fast-and-reliable/
RAW wrote:
Draco wrote:
Ok...read about the water wetter....
here is one of the links....
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redline-waterwetter®-review/
clearly clutch fluid is also to risky.....so....that meens we will run hot for ever....maby get the mix tight like raw said and so on....in the end...it gets got and you screwed.....funny....we land on the moon and create all these wonderful things....but heat still screws us over....
well so much for exploring.....
Thanks for everybodies input.....the clutch fluid thing is aparently another load of bad opinion....
Remember this:
Engines make power by converting BTU's of heat into working energy, the more heat you take out of the motor the more BTU's of possible "working" energy you loose. There is a reason near all automotive manufactures strive for right around 90deg inlet temp.... its not to make your car hot or overheat 😉Use it, dont use it.
Mr. Rezlo, I know much less about engines and stuff than you, so I'll take your word on this, it sounds logical....if you one day know for a fact what will get me that inlet temp costantly without fail....let me know please.
Draco wrote:
Sometimes exploring could get some results we said never possible...but as rightly stated....I am not gonna test something like this....this is a test for someone with money....if they could get their heads out of the box.... 😉
Thats one of the smartest things, if not the smartest you've said, there is nothing wrong in questioning convention, but its knowing when you are barking up the wrong tree and there is no value to question what you are questioning...
To the people that might even consider this, may I ask, why breakfluid? why not Milk, or Chanel number 5, or Motor oil? Are you going to go through every possible fluid on earth that might result in what? maybe 1 - 5% better cooling? Where 99.999% of the time water and coolant works best? Eish, now thats just a waste of time and money, Rather debate which coolant is best, dont try ice skate uphill...... 😈
i thought brake fluid and clutch fluid are the same thing???
Draco wrote:
RAW wrote:
Draco wrote:
Mr. Rezlo, I know much less about engines and stuff than you, so I'll take your word on this, it sounds logical....if you one day know for a fact what will get me that inlet temp costantly without fail....let me know please.
If it goes over 90 you have a problem, you fix the problem = you have the correct temprature,
If its rocketing due to added power (stock radiator can support a good 220kw-230kw odd in summer), you need to upgrade your radiator, obviously as your power goes up you need to take it further.
I bet you that your radiator is 1/2 clogged and your waterpump and thermostat need replacing, or your fan clutch is failing.
Along the lines of what Sokar said, OEM's use specific types of fluids because they work best or last correct amounts of time before break down, if there were substantialy better and "safer" options trust me you would see it in the OEM's or proper racing cars first.
In the early 1980s, Toyota researched production of an adiabatic ceramic engine which can run at a temperature of over 6000 °F (3300 °C). Ceramic engines do not require a cooling system and hence allow a major weight reduction and therefore greater fuel efficiency. Fuel efficiency of the engine is also higher at high temperature, as shown by Carnot's theorem. In a conventional metallic engine, much of the energy released from the fuel must be dissipated as waste heat in order to prevent a meltdown of the metallic parts. Despite all of these desirable properties, such engines are not in production because the manufacturing of ceramic parts in the requisite precision and durability is difficult. Imperfection in the ceramic leads to cracks, which can lead to potentially dangerous equipment failure. Such engines are possible in laboratory settings, but mass-production is not feasible with current technology.
JUst to add to RAW stuff
One of the reasons some new hard core cars use plasma sprayed bores.. like the GTR,,, also ceramic barriers like our much loved SR20's...
People have even tried using oil as coolant back in the day...
Air-cooled FTW!!!
Thanks Hennie.
I remember when I was studying IC engines and thermodynamics it was something like 30% of power made is given off as heat. So on a mere 150kw engine you will give off 50kw of heat, thats alot of heat.
Draco wrote:
Thanks Hennie.
Hennie why you always delete your stuff....it was good advice....
Draco wrote:
Draco wrote:
Thanks Hennie.
Hennie why you always delete your stuff....it was good advice....
ja ja. kak my maar uit 😉
RAW wrote:
People have even tried using oil as coolant back in the day...
Air-cooled FTW!!!
Deutz still produce a wide range of oil cooled and air cooled diesel engines.
I'm actually just in the process of building a prototype tractor fitted with a Deutz 4 cylinder turbo charged, air cooled motor. The nice thing is there is no need to design a cooling package, its all built in to the engine.
The oil cooled engines use the lubricating oil to cool the engine as well and this is then run through a radiator or other type of heat exchanger. I had a look at a 3 cylinder oil cooled Deutz engine in an Atlas Copco mobile compressor a few weeks ago, and it is a very compact engine.
Gary57 wrote:
I remember when I was studying IC engines and thermodynamics it was something like 30% of power made is given off as heat. So on a mere 150kw engine you will give off 50kw of heat, thats alot of heat.
Almost right. Roughly a third of the energy from the fuel goes to power, a third to heat, and a third to noise.
So if you're making 150kw at the engine you're making roughly 150kw of heat and roughly 150kw of noise.
Guy, Im jealous,,,
Ive always had some form of interest in the more industrial side of big diesel engines, amazing just how much they differ from the usual kak i have to work with every day!
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