Engine Swap

I will put this simply, if you had the money to play in the RB league you would have been there by now. You wouldn’t have even considered a moding the CA18DET it would have been out and on the floor before the car even got home.

Yes you can save and install an RB not a problem but then expect the car to stand when something goes wrong with your RB like a HG\water pump\oil pump\gaskets .. ect for example and you get the money together so a daily driver is out of the question, Now I don’t earn a lot of cash but I do have a few rands to throw around at the end of the month and I wouldn’t even look at a RB because of costs.

Now don’t get me wrong the RB\2JZ series motors can pump out a lot of power but you have to pay to play, the average SX drive sh&t’s there pants at the cost of Injectors \widebands \Forged pistons \Cams… Ect now you want to put in a motor where the costs are double sometimes triple? Also you want to take the chance of not rebuilding your R10000 motor in a hope that the guy that sold it to you wasn’t talking Sh%t?

Also there are some people that have gone the SR route I am happy for them , That’s fine the SR is a better motor overall because of support \ parts and knowledge then the CA, but then why spend R 15000 to install a bone stock SR? Why for bragging rights? Throw R15000 at you CA18? Then line up your stock SR and moded CA at a line and see who will win?

Plus you have more peace of mind because it’s fully rebuilt motor VS a so call 80-000KM motor, Look at VeeCee’s motor it looked like an anchor Imagine if he started the motor before striping it down. Then you have to factor in rebuilding costs anyway. I don’t get it , Yes Rezlo in making kick a$$ SR’s, Yes the SR can pump out a lot of ponies but it takes money again lots and lots of money, experience and parts are not cheap so most SR’s run around with an exhaust, Cone, management and IC and they will get thrashed by a CA18DET with R15000 thrown at it or worse case run head to head.

I’m not running down the guys that have done SR swaps, I have spoken personally to most of you and some just had bad luck with there CA18DET and some just wanted a change but then don’t stand on the forum and say a stockish SR20 swap is better the throwing that money at your CA18DET because I have done it and anyone that’s been in my car will know how quick she is also I have been around more bearing knocks on SR motors because of so called 80-000KM motors\expect tuners and just upping the boost a little

If you are planning on pushing for more the 220RWkw I would say do the out lay of costs and go SR but his will only be dead reliable after a out lay of cash for a few performance parts, If your shooting for more the 300 RWkw I would say go RB\2JZ , But most people are even lucky to push 200Rwkw and those numbers make for a fast car, So I’m just saying sit down and do you budget because out of ever one project that succeeds 10 fail because of bad planning and no funds, factor in life and living with your car also if you can get it sold after and at what loss then watch the costs climb.

I know I’m not making friends with this post and I also get envious of RB25SX\RBSX\Rezlo\Hennie but they have the money to play, They have worked hard in there life’s to get to the point and for anyone to bankrupt yourself or to put you life on hold for a few years while you save for your RB\SR power ride is just stupid

PFB I get what you are saying and you speek the truth but a stock internalled RB25 can do 350RwKw with the correct bolt on's. What would it cost to build a CA or SR to make this power, my guess is more than the RB?!

I am finished modding my CA now because to get any decent gains now will cost alot and that just isnt worth it in my eyes, a RB25 is my next major mod. As for parts I can any engine part from the states within 5 days, so it can still be a daily.

PFB, thats all true.

Just for interest sake, regarding cost of a RB, I built a RB30DET ( RB30E sub from old skyline 30SGLI) + RB25DET cyl head.Bought a used sub for R2500. Had it rebored,fitted new pistons, rings, bearings cost me R3500.(all parts from local part suppliers) Imported RB25DET gasket set R2000. Could have gone with RB30 head gasket to save money.
Now I dont say anyone has to do that, but there are ways to get around the huge cost of a RB, and the 3L makes a huge differance in performance. There are a few tricks involved in building a RB30DET, so its not just straight forward bolt together.

PFB I get what you are saying and you speek the truth but a stock internalled RB25 can do 350RwKw with the correct bolt on's. What would it cost to build a CA or SR to make this power, my guess is more than the RB?!

I would never push a CA18 or SR there but how many people here have the money to play in the 350KW league? This is a dreamer statement because you are going to need deap pockets to get here and like I said the CA18DET would have been on the floor years ago

I am finished modding my CA now because to get any decent gains now will cost alot and that just isnt worth it in my eyes, a RB25 is my next major mod. As for parts I can any engine part from the states within 5 days, so it can still be a daily.

Yes EMS shipping is fast if you HAVE the money

😳 Only seen this tread now,

My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,
I have probly spent ex labour R60-70K(without skimping),This is the cost of the parts involved to get this power,Labour to do the convertion depends on who does it ,That for me has been my mistake,Had to pay a tuner to fix the others shit work(timeing,mapping,General kak)

Will update my project section soon with Dyno and pics 😈

My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,

What bolt on's do you have??

It just proves my point, It pays to play if you don’t have 90K to throw at your ride then don’t start, If I remember correctly it was Rezlo who said stay SR is cheaper then going RB for most of anyone’s requirements.

But 300RWKW is not just a set of cams and a fake ass GT28RS

Gary57 wrote:

My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,

What bolt on's do you have??

GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all 🙂

ljS14 wrote:

Gary57 wrote:

My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,

What bolt on's do you have??

GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all 🙂

Why do these bolt-on mods sound more like an entire project 😕

ReeceZ wrote:

ljS14 wrote:

Gary57 wrote:

What bolt on's do you have??

GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all 🙂

Why do these bolt-on mods sound more like an entire project 😕

everything does BOLT ON though... 😉 😉

ReeceZ wrote:

ljS14 wrote:

Gary57 wrote:

What bolt on's do you have??

GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all 🙂

Why do these bolt-on mods sound more like an entire project 😕

It kinda has been an entire project ,ex piping etc,Dont get me wrong there is alot of work to do this swop 😮

SR is much easier... and if you do it your self... much cheaper... just don't be like me... I'm Mr Procrastination! 😳 😳 😳

This is gona carry on for a few more pages i think, the same thing happend when I asked this question. 😂

i dunno riekert, i must be King Procrastination then???

HEY!

hi

rat wrote:

hi

.. lol

To tell you guys the honest truth, I have looked into doing a RB25 Swap to my ride a number of times and to be honest every time a post come up my mind starts wondering “What if” so I made a little projected cost using my car but I would be doing it a little different ithen most as, I will try not to use an aftermarket management system like Dictator,Gotech.. ect. I would like to source the stock ECU not that hard to find really and carry on using NIStune.

I figured I already have some Items like:

Oil Cooler
FMIC
Exhaust
Fuel Pump
Wideband
Boost Controller
Z32 AFM
CAI
Radiator and Electric Fan.
BOV.

Things I will need and Estimated Pricing:
-------------------------------------------------------------------

RB25 S2 Engine and Gearbox – R19000
R33 RB25DET Engine Cross member - 230USD = R2100 (For strength, I hear it just bolts in on the S chassis)
SYKO SKYLINE RB25DET ENGINE INTO 240SX SWAP KIT - $585.00 = R5500 (Item also includes downpipe for RB to match stock SR exhaust.)
BBT RB Tachometer Conversion - Nissan 240sx – 85USD = R820 (I have never see a RB swap that has a working Tach with the correct Rev’s)
RB25DET S2 Engine Wiring Harness – 300USD = R2720 (Used in modifiaction)
BBT RB Conversion Harness Service – 360USD = R3300 (They will mold my CA18DET and RB harness together all items will work including aircon)
G8 ECU from a R33 RB25DET S2 motor – 170USD = R1600 (For Harness)
ISIS RB25DET Intake Manifold – 400USD = R3700 (For intercooler piping)
Drive Shaft Modification – R1500
NIStune – R3500 (Tuning)
MISC Items – R3000 (Unforeseen items)

Total – R29700 + 16% (For VAT and Shipping) = R34500

Note: Now this is where a lot of people will step in and say cut out the stock harness and all the other stuff and go dictator and it will be cheaper, This is true but after seeing all the Maps in the stock system, I personally think for an everyday (mild set-up) the stock ECU is better. I don’t have proof to back-up my claim but its pure logic really and if, I had to go aftermarket I would try for an E-manage also a lot of people would say just make up your own mounts but purely based on what I have come across out there on the net and what I have seen here in SA its way better to use the R33 cross member for strength and reliability when doing this swap. I’m sure RBSX will kick me for saying it and I have never done the swap so I might be totally wrong here.

Refresher for the RB
------------------------------------

Nissan RB N1 Oil Pump – 300USD = 2800
RAW RB Crank Collar – 100USD = R900
Nissan RB25DET OEM Gasket Kit -200USD = R1900
Nissan OEM RB Timing Component Kit – 100USD = R900
Nissan RB OEM Timing Belt – 60USD = R550
Nissan RB N1 Water Pump – 200USD = R1900

Total – R8590 + 14 % (For VAT and Shipping) = R10203

Note. This is just a refresh of you new RB25, With the Items I have heard on the net are Important to replace of renew. I’m sure a lot of parts can be gotten cheaper but It’s a base guide

Estimated power.
------------------------------

Stock RB25 – 247HP (184Fwkw)

Exhaust Estimated – 30 Fwkw
Intake System (Cone Filter) 10 Fwkw
Intake Manifold 10 Fwkw
NIStune – 5 Fwkw
Boost controller and Increase -10 Fwkw

** Estimated 220 Rwkw **

Note. A lot of people might say I’m being to conservative maybe but lets play it safe as you haven’t refreshed the motor or turbo. Also at these power levels you injectors will be at around 85% duty pluse adding anymore upgrades is going to be very expensive.

Cost recovery
--------------------------
If I did the swap I would try to sell my complete CA18DET for around R10000 to recover costs plus sell off the spare items I have for the motor like ECU’s. Igniters’ ,Ect.

The Point
The point of this was never to run down the RB series of motors at all, It was more a project build up using my car to see the costs involved but I would like to bring one thing to everyone attention this does not include rebuilding your new toy so its down to having a sharp eye and the luck of the draw at the importers also we don’t get the top quality stuff like in the states so be careful. I know I am missing a few items here and there and I am sure you guys will point it out to me.

To be honest it does seem like a small outlay for 220Rwkw but the Age, condition of the motor plus the age of the turbo bother me as parts are expensive and hard to come by, I think RBSX needs to fill the gaps in here as to water pumps,clutch's, Oil filters..ect and living with an RB

Thanks PFB for the write up with pricing.

Theres a running 1JZ i can get for 6k just thinking of what RBSX said

Truth is, if i were in your position, I would go 1JZ TT Reason is
those engines are dirt cheap right now

R6000 engine ... after some negotiation
R6000 box....maybe even cheaper
R2000 Flywheel
R1200 Clutch

if your FMIC is bigg and your rediator is fine
get a dicktator, prop shaft mod,
link the exhaust, and slight mods to the FMIC piping
2 x12" fans,

you can be up and running for around another R15k

thats 30k for 200rwkw.... show me a Sr20 that can pull that off

They will make 200rwkw stcck, stock ....reliable
parts are slighly cheaper than the 2jz from toyota dealerships
They can Make 300rwkw on bolt on mods with ease
its also very strong

its lighter than the Rb25
it sounds almost identical to the 2jz

Anway thats my thoughts

As for the conversion,,,,The JZ family will fit, with the ABS unit installed
you just need to move it to the right a little
the Gearbox is Shorter, so you will have to have the leaver bent like an S alittle, works perfectly, you will never think, its bent

just an idea

veecee wrote:

i dunno riekert, i must be King Procrastination then???

well only by two months though... hehehe 😂