Dicktator wasted spark help

its not stock turbo its t3t4

they said my injectors wernt handeling like stock injectors he said on idle stock take 1.4-1.5miliseconds and mine were on 1.1miliseconds but as far as i know they are stock

Doesnt matter what turbo, stock injectors simply cant supply enough fuel for that power. If you had a HUGE turbo you would make that power at 0.3bar, the fuel is what limits you.

Either the dyno is fibbing or that is corrected to flywheel power.

Good power then-get some 550's and boost it 1 bar.
Should make 200 easy.

its all about getting the equalibrium my SR made 180rwkw on 0.9 with import single BB Turbo t28 standard injectors walbro pump o and about 98 octane

That power is achievable at a big stretch but only at 1bar +...but you will be REALLY stretching injectors and the t25 (if that's what you are running).

You can run that power at the fly on a safe stage 1 tune here (filter, free flow exhaust, 1 bar boost, higher octane fuel 97RON, optional FMIC)

Things won't last long though

well i was told wheel who knows i aint no expert in this field

my afr are nice running in the 11s with full boost

again not stock turbo dj its t3t4

ok here my mods

t3t4 turbo
76mm zorst
600x300x76mm fmic
std injectors
aftermarket fpr set to 2.5bar with vacum
walbro high flow pump
and boost set to 0.85bar

warn rings
slight oil leak
258-000km

Jip-remember it was with a very good and very expensive MINEs tune AND BB turbo!

Poizen, I think it's achievable at the wheels buy the injectors will be MAXXED! I'd upgrade asap because you are risking damaging your engine.

poizen wrote:

yip

227.5 BHP

and 272nm on the wheels it feels awesome

I don't understand what all the fuss is about . BHP is measured at the engine, but that could just be a spelling mistake 😕

Stock injectors should easily support that, and if its infact wheel power then its safe to assume its around 260-270BHP which is probably near the very limit of the injectors but I wouldnt exactly call it unsafe to run. Plus the man says the AFR's are good.

Either way, well done poizen. Your car is coming along nicely! and will only get better im sure.

Plus if you blow up the engine then you have an excuse to build a stronger one 😉

Oh and can we get some clarification to what the answer is to the original question of this thread please?

There were two questions...of which one was answered as far as I can see

ok dont even worrie with idle control my car idles fine without it doesnt drop or anything

use the opel blue sensor it fits perfect in stock position and you will need a injector plug to connect to it

next is coils if you going thru the std loom connect pin 1 and 11 to ignition output1 then group pin 2 and 3 to output number 2

next run brown 1 to injectors 1 and 4 and brown 2 to injectors 2 and 3

and the injector positive to all 4 and then to the coils its a thick blue/red wire

next is fuel pump connect it to a black/yellow wire in you side sill driver side

for rev counter connect the blue/black wire to the yellow red that goes up into the dash by the std ecu cant miss it

to wire up the cas dicktator wiring is wrong there 4 pins on the cas
pin A-ground-black wire

pinB-12volt dont put less than 9volts here its a thick black/white wire- connect the red white wire here but make sure it has more than 9volts comming thru if not use 12volt ignition directly to it

pinC-home signal its greed/black connect the white wire here

pin D-trigger its green/yellow wire connect the green whire there

hope i said anything if not ask ill tell you

i bought 550cc injectors which turned out to be 950 cc so didnt end up using them although i should of but once they sold ill get 550cc and retune

Yeah 550's would be perfect

Very nice bud.. Now you can do mine for me 😉

I need urgent help, Anyone?

I have a wasted spark setup on my std CA18DET(Std injectors, turbo, pump etc. . . ). The management is fully set up but i need a starter map so i can get it to the tuner. i got the car mapped to start but its not going anywhere. I need to know whats the fuel pressure reading from the pump even if im not lucky enough to get a map or if sum1 can give me sum direction on the approximate values the map should be set to.
The car starts, it reves up to round about 2000 and then chokes . . . . HELP

Fuel pressure should be at least 3,6 bar on idle.

Charlvdw wrote:

Fuel pressure should be at least 3,6 bar on idle.

with or without vaccuum mine is set to 3bar withot vac and 2.4 with vac on