Ok so...G&C says theres no gaskets betw Manifold and Turbo & Turbo and Downpipe!?
Stock but rebuilt Turbo and stock manifold CA18det
My knowledge on this is limited, Are all T2x gaskets the same?
NB! Where can i get the Said gaskets...apart from the Nissan.
Any Help will be appreciated as my car at the workshop now!
Thanks
Deon
t25 and t28 use the same flanges so yes they are the same
denoSX wrote:
Ok so...G&C says theres no gaskets betw Manifold and Turbo & Turbo and Downpipe!?
From the factory, it comes with gaskets between turbo, manifold and downpipe.
there definitely is metal gaskets in there, check it out, nuff said..
I just bought one from Nissan, was R230 and it is Metal...
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/34668045@N08/5001525594/" title="18/09/2010 by awaldeck, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/5001525594_57af87676d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="18/09/2010" /></a>
Buy Nissan gaskets mate, they are well worth the price, you won't be replacing them too often.
And yes of course there are gaskets between manifold/turbo/downpipe.
Never heard anyone say there isn't, especially a company working on your car! 😮
i paid R40 at mr turbo for a steel gasket
If it keeps on blowing use some fire gum with the new gasket it nefer fails !!!!!!!!! 🙂 😀
I think I have the perfect thing for you...
I have done mine now twice on my car, the first time was to put the STD Nissan gasket in and that held for a few months, with fire gum on...
The second time was a custom made gasket from a company called pro-cut gaskets, this held a few months longer....
Now I have the turbo manifold and down pipe 100%
I had Pro-cut make me a COPPER gasket, then had it anneal'd and that was that....I boost 1bar and have no issue's....I even race my car at the track and it has held 100%.....I also used a thin layer of Copper gasket (permatex 90% copper silicone just to coat the flanges and then let it dry for a hour, they say dries in 15min but you want it to be almost all the way through dry then you'll never look back) 😀
I don't know what you guys are doing or what gaskets nissan are supplying you there in SA, but the standard nissan Gasket is perfect by itself. You must have warped surfaces, make sure all surfaces are flat and get a propper nissan metal gasket.
Also another thing that help on low cars is a flexi downpipe so that if you have any exhaust bangs, the gasket stays in tact.
Anyone want to post a picture of the SA gasket?
Yea I agree, I added a flex joint, cause my mani studs pulled out of the block and stripped,blew the mani gasket cause it was loose, blew the turbo inlet gasket cause it was loose, not really nice. but got it fixed.
Scroll up for a pic of the nissan gasket, its realy thick metal
Yeah that's the right one.
Another important thing is to torque the nuts and bolts up as per owners manual! Also it's important to using the locking tabs so that the nuts don't work themselves loose.
The only problem I've had is nuts working themselves loose...not a problem with the gaskets themselves.
So to ensure they stay tight, torque up properly, use thread lock and the locking tabs.
If you still have problems....weld the shiz together!
i have no gaskets between my turbo and down pipe and manifold and turbo
the best gasket is 2 perfectly ground areas ive never had a leak in a year now
but if you cant machine your areas then use a copper or steel gasket
its all very well to say re-torque them but how the hell do you get into there with no spce to do so, plus they have lock plates holding them in place so you'd really need to get in there to loosen the plate before you could even try tighten them again, then you dont have spanner space to tighten it....
I found my flange was not 100% so I had it skimmed, but the funny thing is the last two times I used a crush steal gasket like the STD Nissan one they didnt hold and nuts didnt come loose but they where not tight against the flange....
If they weren't tight against the flange then you either cross threaded, got caught up on shiz on the nut from not cleaning them, or as you said not a flat surface. Clean all nut/bolt threads before re-using them (or get new ones).
To torque them you should take the assembly out and work on a bench. With the right tools and space you can torque them. The plates just bend to allow you to tighten the nuts...then bend the plates back, or get new ones.
Best way is to assemble the whole turbo/manifold/elbow/oil & water lines assembly outside of the car. Make sure the manifold surface is flat (get skimmed) and use a propper multi layer steel gasket as torqueing the manifold is difficult in situe. But these have less of a chance of blowing if the surfaces are flat, the right gasket is used and you tighten as much as possible (bolts are easier to get to in situe than any others on the whole assembly).
The above method might be the more difficult/time consuming to fit but from personal experience, I'd rather have a tough time fitting the assembly properly that re-doing it again and again.
If you don't do the job properly, you will just carry on battling with gaskets...Do it right, do it once.
I also can't say it enough, Nissan gaskets are the best. Don't use gaskets "like" nissan ones...use the proper Nissan ones.
Thanks for the info...quite a discussion and good tips...got gasket set at turbo exchange for R120 i think...and its all good!
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