reving slow

hi guys......so i just redid my timing and its set on 15 degrees but the motor revs up very slowly till it hits boost then when i go into boost and leave the throttle the car dies or struggles to stay alive. Could this be due to the atmospheric dump valve? is the car going into limp mod? any other ideas?

Dont think its the BOV.

Could be limp mode

Whats your AFR's looking like?

Don't know do u think it could be dirty

Don't know you think it might be dirty?

Check Vacuum lines, MAF sensor.

I think you would get a good idea if you measure your air/fuel ratio

Chech the computer box for errors. I think mode 3 when the car is stationar and i think 5 for testing on the go.

Also check your fuel pressure, afm....Did you connect the BOV correctly?

Bov is connected fine will check errors thanks guys

ok i checked the ecu code and all im getting is a error 13 which is Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor does that make sense to anyone and on top of that when i rev the car and it dies it doesn't want to start again

Anyone?

Drillergy wrote:

Dont think its the BOV.

Could be limp mode

Whats your AFR's looking like?

Drillergy wrote:

Check Vacuum lines, MAF sensor.

I think you would get a good idea if you measure your air/fuel ratio

Grobblere wrote:

Also check your fuel pressure, afm....Did you connect the BOV correctly?

Did you actually do any of this? I'm going to guess no.

SonOfAnarchy ZA wrote:

ok i checked the ecu code and all im getting is a error 13 which is Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor does that make sense to anyone and on top of that when i rev the car and it dies it doesn't want to start again

So, have you replaced the engine temp sensor or checked that it works properly as per the FSM? I'm going to guess no again.

Have you recently had to set the cam timing for whatever reason? Could be a cam that is out 1 tooth.

Leave the dump valve disconnected (assuming it seals properly).

cant tell air fuel ratio don't have a afr gauge vacuum lines are all fine don't have a gauge to check fuel pressure didn't check afm don't really know what to look for. just redid the timing looked fine and with a timing light im directly on 15 degrees. please advise the process i can take to check those things

the temp sensor seems to be fine the car still shows its heating up

Get a FSM. The cluster temp gauge works on a different sensor to the engine coolant temp sensor that feeds signals to the ECU.

There are numerous writeups on how to clean the MAF.

If you cannot check these things yourself take the car to somebody that can, otherwise you are just going to run around in circles. You need to start at one point and systematically eliminate possibilities.

where is that other sensor located? im not taking the car to someone else gotta learn how to do fix this car myself. i appreciate the help

The sensor sits on the intake mani above the thermostat, while you busy replace both(big and small temp sensor), take one thing at a time, if the ecu gives you an error code for that, replace that and move on after the error code does not show anymore.

It sounds like the engine is smothered by fuel or because it does not get enough air to the intake, drive the car till the point where it dies, pull the plugs directly and see and smell if it was fouled(wet) by fuel, if it is, most propably your FPR is stuck or broken raising you fuel pressure way to high and smuthering the spark resulting in no combustion.

Something might be blocking your boost pipes or you might have a leak somewhere, as soon as the pressure comes to a certain point, the leak realeases all the pressure(air) starving the motor of air.

But my best guess is...timing.

Have you actually checked that the timing belt is fitted correctly, as said before, might be that your cam timing between your intake, exhaust cams or crank is out by a tooth or digree, your timing light shows 15 digrees but thats assuming the timing between the cams and crank is right, if it isn't that might cause your problem.

so cleaned my afm this weekend was dirty :200sx_200sx: but didn't make a noticeable difference pinched the vacuum line to the dump valve and that seemed to fix the problem where it dies. is this just because the motor doesn't like atmospheric dump valves or could i have connected it wrong? i ran the vacuum line to the dump valve from the vacuum line going directly into the side of the intake.......is this wrong?

Your dump valve is probably leaking, thus causing the motor to lean out too much on idle.

Increase the pre-load so that it doesn't pull open under idling vacuum. If it leaks while idling, I presume it drives like shit at small throttle openings.