A T2.8/T3 Garrett journal bearing turbo

Good advise Draco! 😉

Sometimes with the T2 range turbos especially the T28 range, the turbo needs to be clocked about 5deg to fit properly.

So thats also something too look at other than the flange, although clocking it is not difficult.

My motor is running with a TD04 and the power is linear from about 3500-4000 and boosts from low down. Probably something similar to the GT28 Hanco is talking about regarding performance.

I dont have any complaints and the motor pulls strongly with max boost set to 0.8 bar and boosts 0.5 from low down...

i've read that bigger wheels also cause more lag.

so the bigger diameter on the wheels the more the lag, because the exhaust gasses have to overcome a bigger inertia that the bigger wheels have.

the materials of the wheels also plays a part in lag for the same reason. ceramic wheels are far lighter than aluminium wheels and therefore spool up faster. but ceramic wheels tend to break apart at the upper limit of the turbos max RPM.

Thanx a billion for all the input guys!!! Really appreciate it... My ol' man spoke to me about all these things that I should take into perspective for which turbo to get in terms of the actual engine threshold 😕 Does anyone know how much power the stock CA engine can withstand without blowing head gaskets or breaking internals??? I've heard that If you look at making over 100KW at the wheels then you're looking for trouble 🙁 Is this true? Cause I really wanna make around 130RWKW but don't know if it's gonna be safe 😕 I'm so confused

not true...

a stock CA18det is supposed to make around 135kw's at the fly, which roughly translates to about 100kw at the wheels.

i reckon a stock ca18det could handle 200kw's no problem.

That is such a relief to hear VC!!! You have no idea... I've got a stock CA engine with current mods such as FMIC, filter, 63mm zorst, BOV... I'm looking at getting a T28/T3 and running 0.8 bar boost on it, also want to chip the engine with a piggyback Perfect Power Lettripp Turbo Fueller management and then eventually dyno tune the final setup... Is there anything that I'm missing here? Such as upgrading the fuel pump?... I'm not sure... Just to make this mod safe for the dyno without spending too much more...

Upgrading the fuel pump is always a good idea. Probably a must if you looking for over 130wkw. Which is not hard to do.

My CA is old, has 300k kms on it. I fitted a 76 mm exhaust, removed the viscous fan, fitted a cone filter and then had her timing set on a dyno.

She made 160kw at the fly or about 126wkw up here in jozi. And it's been driving like that for about 2 years now. My car sees the limiter at least twice everytime I drive it, so it's pretty reliable.

I think you should aim for 180wkw - 200wkw.

Awesome stuff man... Just what the doctor ordered 😂 And I can't believe that you're making that much power with so few mods! That's really impressive 😀 I've been surfing a bit and it seems a new fuel pump would be a good idea so thanx for the advice Doctor. Also finding that the standard engine is capable of withstanding around 150rwkw so I think I'm good to go? If anyone has anything else that they think I've left out please advise me as I'm pretty new to this. Thanx tonnes for the help once again 😀

there are cleverer 😂 s13 guys on this forum than me but I reckon you should:

get a 76mm pipe if you can afford to change.
get a boost controller. preferably electric, although for 0.8 bar I think a manual may be fine.
Get a walbro fuel pump (gss-341 with the 400-766 filter kit)
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
FMIC (think you mentioned you got one)
Cold air intake or cone filter on stock piping.
Bigger MAF (Z32 or better)
Ditch the PP Turbo Fueller. For the same money you can get something that can do timing and fuel, and and and...
Get the T28/T3 turbo or better.

Also, with the s13 like any car it pays to save up a bit and do the mods you wanna do properly, instead of doing the cheap, easy way wich will probably cost you more money and some frustration in the end.

Happy modding 😉 😀

Great that sounds like a plan 🙂 Just not too sure what the MAF Z32 is??? What are the prices for this? And what should I be looking at instead of the Perfect Power chip? Tnx

do exactory what G said!

go look in the classifieds section.

its no longer for sale, but dr g had one there. and there are photo's.

you stock MAF is a bottleneck in your system. it restricts the airflow when you start talking about 200hp or more!

but if you ditch the PP and go with a full management system you can run MAP instead of MAF, and then you will not be restricted at all.

i say aim for 180 instead of 150 on the wheels!

An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is one of the best things you can buy.

And their pretty cheap - like R400 for a good one.
1) This will immediatly be able to tell u if the stock fuel pump is still up to the job - or at least till where u can push it by checking for pressure drops as the motor revs/works hard at high rpms.

2) higher pressure at injectors = more fuel into engine that is required to make more power form more boost, etc. U get the idea. Obviously this also only works up to a point but is a simple fix rather than getting injectors that are too big/expensive....

3) Many standard SX fpr have been opened or tampered with to gain the advantages of an adjustable one - sometimes with the end result that the original one is stuffed.

Anyway - that's in my opinion always a good place to start.

Enzio wrote:

An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is one of the best things you can buy.
.

I got a Nismo one for free... So will I be able to run it on my stock setup? will it make any diffs?

sorry for the jack...

i dont see what is wrong with the std fpr?

Your std fpr can be playin up. So fit it with a aftermarket one then you can check if your fuel pump is pumping at the right pressure. If not then you can adjust it.

Its more a safety precaution than anything else, like a boost guage.

It also helps for fine tunning your car.

On std setup won't make a diff. If you up the boost or fit bigger turbo i.e. start to fiddle wit hit it, then a fpr becomes a useful tool for making RELIABLE power by ensuring the correct fuel mixture.

a lean mixture = imminent death for engine

And that is always true...

ok i see what you mean 😂

dont want to start a

😂

Anyway, back to the original point:

DocG's ideas sound pretty good. As for the T2.8/T3: it should be about the same sort of size as my TD04 (I think) - and like I said: it boosts from low down, not too much lag, pulls cleanly up to the redline and makes more than enough power.

For a daily drive it makes more sense than something like a T3/T4 which is way too big and will only start making power from 4500-5000 rpm probably (This was the case with one of the cars I test drove - granted that car's engine was fubar though...)

Excellent guys 😀 Sounds great... And Enzio, you're TD04 is probably a T25/T28... I saw a TD04H-15G that was this size... So if I do go for the T28/T3 I'm wondering if I'll maybe get too much lag with it? When exactly does your TD04 start spooling 0.1 bar?

@ VC...Thanx for the info bro... Although 180RWKW sounds a bit too much? Maybe I'm underestimating the CA's stock capabilities... I mean is anyone pushing over 150RWKW with stock internals reliably?