Shogun, +700bhp ca18det

Some pictures from the garage

and some past summer ones

Upgrading the brakes.
Front 350z track edition discs and Z32 calipers.
Rear Z32 discs and calipers.
Bolt on.

This is how I rebuilt a Z32 gearbox to fit my car (200sx S13 with ca18det).

The good thing about it is that you can reuse the nice clutch you already invested in for your S13. I have a twin disc OS Giken clutch, bought for my S13 gearbox. Both gearboxes have the same dimensions on the ingoing splined shaft, release bearing, sleave etc. This makes it an absolute fit. The gear ratio is slightly higher. My car had before a top speed of 282km/h at 7800rpm. With the ratio of the Z32 gearbox and new tyres it will make aprox. 305km/h. Hope you like it.

Clutch: Same as S13 (clutch, bearing, release sleave, starter motor, flywheel)
Weight: A bit heavier because of internal dimensions
Length: A bit shorter (reuse the yoke from the Z32 and the rear part from theS13 and make a new, longer prop shaft)
Gear ratio: A bit higher (~5%)
Shift stick: Reuse the one from Z32 or buy a new short shift
Welding in cast aluminium: You need a TIG or go to a welding shop (sand blast the weld area to make it clean and easier to weld)

Z32 original gearbox from a Twin Turbo 1994

Disassemble the clutch housing (Z32)

Parts to remove to disassemble the clutch housing. Not shown are the screws on the outside (remove), attaching the cluth housing to the gearbox.

Remove all screws around the cover and carefully lift it off

Remove both snap rings and the stopper ring

Be careful not to lose any important washers or shims

Important! First remove the screw, spring and ball before removing the complete interlock assembly, the ball might fall into the gearbox.

Before you disassemble the clutch housing of the S13 gearbox, you have to make a centering device. Use a plexi glass plate (10mm) and drill a 16mm hole in the centre, put the plate over the shaft (snug fit) and carefully drill 4 small holes exactly in the centre of the holes where the gearbox is attached to the motor. Remove the plate and carefully drill the holes just as big to get the screws in

Result

Remove the clutch housing from the ca18det S13 gearbox. It is more or less just to remove the screws on the outside of the clutch housing, remove the cover and one snap ring.

Remove the snap ring under the cover

Comparision between the both gearboxes. One is useless over 350-400Bhp, the other last well over 1000Bhp and more.

Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the S13 gearbox ca. 50mm, take it to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 45mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.

Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the Z32 gearbox ca. 40mm, throw away the flange and take the rest of the clutch housing to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 355mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.

Both parts after grinding, cleaning and reattaching the clutch housing on the Z32 gearbox

Put the S13 flange snug to the Z32 clutch housing and attach the centering plate with four screws

Side view

Top view. Important to align and rotate them like on the picture

If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside

Reuse the shift stick bracket from the Z32 gearbox. You have to cut out some small triangles from it, bend it to a Z-shape to fit the S13 under body and then weld the cut outs together. (borrowed picture)

The new short shift

A small change of shift stick position compared to the original (borrowed picture)

A plate to cover the hole at the shift stick (borrowed picture)

A bracket to hold the gearbox in place (borrowed picture)

Aligning the gearbox with the rear axle. Put a steel tube in the gearbox, aim it towards the centre of the rear axle flange and find the final position of the gearbox bracket. (borrowed picture)

Side view (borrowed picture)

Front view (borrowed picture)

The prop shaft. Mount the Z32 yoke in the gearbox and the original flange on the rear axle. Measure the centre distance between the loops in the yoke and in the rear flange. Use this measure and go to your local prop shaft supplier and have him to make your new prop shaft. The shaft rotate at about 10.000rpm at max speed so it has to be dimensioned for the forces and also balanced.

Ooops! What has happened here? Time to get rid of the 12 year old styling and renew it. This bumper is now ditched

The new bumper from

Some pictures from today. Jay has done a marvelous job on the shiny bits. It is nice to assemble clean parts 😀

Device to correct the speedometer. Needed because of the different speed signals and gear ratio in the Z32 gearbox. It also handle changed wheel/tyre sizes etc. The sensor signal to the speedometer is handled to show the correct speed on the speedo. It also show the max speed from the latest run by pressing a button.

A toy I built some years ago. Had 1136BHP to play with and made mid eights on the quarter

I had lots of fun with it and did heavy modifications on it to gain power and reduce weight. Now it is back in the states again and in the hands of a very happy owner. Last I heard about it was that it made great times on the strip and has won quite a lot.

[QUOTE=rogoman;1291430]Nice set of pictures. How about some detailed specs of the ca18det?[/QUOTE]

Thanxs!

Yes, you are right. It is about time so here we go:

* Blueprinted custom engine with everything exchanged for maximum HP and durability
* Custom made JE Forged Piston; High Heat Ceramic Coated crowns and Moly coated skirts, Heavy Duty Wrist Pins, Contact Reduction Grooves, Total-Seal Gapless Top rings and more
* Pauter Forged 4340 Con Rods
* Full flow ported head, polished valves and multi angle valve seats
* Tomei Procams with adjustable cam wheels
* Tomei valve springs to match the lift and duration
* Trust reinforced cam belt
* SRX700 custom design and built flow optimized turbo
* ARP head, main, rods, flywheel studs/bolts
* Custom made exhaust manifold and down pipe
* ACL Performance bearings - Calico coated (rods/main)
* OS Giken Twin Plate clutch and Z32 custom gearbox, short shift, custom made drive shaft from Spalding, designed for +10,000 rpm
* DTA Fast S60 Pro, fully programmable engine control system with launch control, traction control, ALS, multi maps etc
* 960 cc high Ohm 7-beam race-injectors from Bosch Motorsports development department
* Custom Rail from Nuke Performance
* MAP/MAT-sensors to measure pressure and temperature in the plenum
* 4" downpipe + 3" exhaust system
* ATS Deftforce 1.5-way LSD
* Custom made FMIC from Racecooling
* Q45 80mm TB, match ported
* Custom Plenum, flow adjusted with funnels and developed in flow bench, match ported
* HKS SSQV
* Custom made radiator from Racecooling
* 25-row oil cooler from Setrab
* Upgraded, new oil pump with higher oil pressure
* Double electric fans, controlled by the DTA-system
* Samco silicone hoses
* Light aluminium belt wheels
* Undersize Powerbond harmonic balancer
* Peak Performance engine and gearbox mounts with exchangeable bushings for street & strip
* Aluminium coolant tank
* Air panels to guide the cooling air
* Fuel pressure regulator and filter from Aeromotive
* Bosch fuel pumps
...and on…

Today I picked up the new turbo from .
Without doubt they are skilled experts in the world of turbos. Dick has made an excellent job. There is nothing about this SX700S that is standard. Top Class Dick! 1000 cheers! 👏

Tomei MHG for big power output.
The listing show approximate CR vs thickness and bore.

[QUOTE=Teggers;5036067]Mmmm :smitten: pretty turbo... (I'm such a magpie!!) But whats the purple stuff on the inlet flange?[/QUOTE]

Since the ca18det is such a small engine and the turbo is LARGE, it is necessary to do something to improve the useable rpm-area of the ca.

It is not so visible on the outside, more on the inside.

Exhaust side:
a. The inside of the housing has been ported and polished to speed up the exhaust flow.
b. The inside has purple ceramic coating to keep temperature on the right side. Spool up much faster.
c. The heat shield between the turbine and the bearing housing has been ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer.
d. The vings of the turbine has been optimized for improved efficiency and durability.
e. The outlet has been opened up (cone shaped) to improve the exhaust gas flow.
f. The outside of the housing has been ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer to the under bonnet area and to keep up the internal exhaust gas speed

Compressor side:
a. Internally ported and polished air intake mouth to improve flow.
b. Turbine wheel is a CNC-machined ving shape, highly efficient, lightweight and very rare version.
c. Turbine wheel has sharp vings (attack angle) to "cut" the air very easy, less air resistance
d. Cone shaped outlet to give a smooth interface to the FMIC tubing
e. Lots of other things I do not know since they want to keep them secret "know how"

Shaft:
a. Strong, light weight and has some kind of special hydrodynamic oil bearings to manage the power

As a result the over all efficiency has improved massively.

Slightly modified plans. Will go for dual Tial with a bit of my own touch

Completed the gauge installation with a couple of useful meters from Autometer.

Don't feed the animal 😀

Some additional chassis parts to lift handling one more step

The digital climate control DCC with power on.

Some Christmas gifts 🙂

This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)

Remove the wheels

Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.

Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.

Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)

Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin

Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.

When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub

Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.

Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.

Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..

Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.

Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.

Remount the brake caliper

Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance 😀

This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.

I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier

Longer studs

Front

Rear