What mods you got??

Hi guys

What mods have you done to your sx and what was the out come?? Was it worth the money and effort??

Show me yours and i will Show you mine!! 😉

Ok Ill start, I have bigger turbo, FMIC (which I am changing for bigger one, Im importing it), water injection, balanced, unichip (might change for management system) and a few other goodies. The car as it was when got tuned makes 162RwKw at 0.8 bar boost, currenely boosting at 0.96Bar (I have digital boost gauge so that is the exact boost).

Now Gary57, we need to speak. I use water/methanol too. The timing aspect need to be cleared with you! What have you done with the timing. Is it advanced and how. Are yor sx perhaps running slightly rich? I only run a bigger wheeltjie on the T25 turbo. Now with T28 wheeljie. Pipe only 57 I think. Stock ECU chip.

My timing is 15degrees advanced. My exhaust is 76mm mandrel bend. Water injection works, mine only comes on at 3/4 throttle. Ja I am running a bit rich, but under full boost it would be on the lean side as the injectors are std and at nearly 1Bar they are at about 100% duty cycle. I can get also full boost by 2500rpm (0.87Bar) so the car has real good low down torque.

If you say 15 deg advance I underst std 15 deg. In other words on the 5th stripe. Why did you not advance timing to say 20 deg? Do you know then you will get more horses? That is the beuty of water/meths. Cause of higher octane. My sx runs real rich under boost, and I am thinking to alter that, cause of water/meths with its anti detonation properties. Would like to run leaner, more optimal under boost. I boost about 0.8 in third gear and then it goes to 1 Bar in 4th gear. I am contemplating to remove the simple intercooler(stock) totaly. I dont want to replace it, get rid of it. Again the water /meths will take charge of cooling. What water/meths kit you using? I still need to dyna, but first would like to tame the advanced timing.

Explain how you get full boost on such low rpm's. I dont follow exactly. Or at least, what caused that situation.

With the timing that far advanced it would start to ping unless it is tuned at that advancement (richer mixture). If I could fiddle with the tuning of the car ie. fuel and ignition maps I would probably be inclinde to advance the timing. Not for more power as the std motor a reliably good for about 200FwKw, which is where it is now. I would rather run lower boost and achieve the same power.
I am a mechanical engineer and fixing cars for years, so yes advancing the timing would only increase the power untill detonation occurs.

The turbo on now has a "small" A/R (area/ radius) ratio so the turbo spools very fast and very early. The downside to this "small" A/R ratio is you develop boost creep as a product of too much air flowing through the turbo, and no where for the excess air to go. So the wastegate port had to be made bigger by 4mm in diameter.
I stand by this that I feel this car drive better than Std. When it was std full boost only came in at just under 4000rpm, now I have full boost at just 2500rpm. So you dont have to rev the car to get it to go. Greater the rev the greater the load and inturn the greater the fiction (wear).

Us sx and infact all modified car owners in this country have alot to learn, from over sees. Instead of just going to your local tuner who says this will work, which he only knows from trial and error (with great respect), rather go to an engineer who can do the math and the science. Im not putting any local tuner down because I am sure they could build a better modified motor than I could, just find one who will take the time and do the math!! All modifying relates to the basic functioning of the IC engine, everything can be calculated before hand, from power to fuel consuption.

have you got the 2L motor or the 1800 motor in and what size is your turbo?

Std 1800 motor. Turbo is similar size (bit smaller) to the one the comes off the S14 but the A/R ratio on the exhaust side is smaller.

Then I am imprest by what you say you get out of it, I have the std. motor with a unithip, 63mm exhaust with 1 box, upgraded compressor wheel T3, performance replacement air filter, running colder spark plugs and boost about 1 bar plus I set my timing on about 18-19 dgs. Gives me alot of low down power and no pinging, last I had it on the dyno I ran 0.8 boost warmer plugs and std. timing I did 100 rwkw in 4th gear, they couldn't test it in 3rd because they couldn't get traction on the dyno wheels no matter how much they whayghed it down.

I think I'l do a 1/4 in about just under 15 sec....I hope.

Std sx made about 90RwKw, not sure why your power is so far down. Put in a front mounted intercooler, a big one.

The only dyno sheets I have is when I got it tuned down here in dbn for economy, hence my reason of pinging. I would post it but not sure how. The dyno sheets say 150.3RwKw at 6000rpm and 267Nm at 3000rpm, this was with out water injection and before the final tune. I never managed to get a print out of 162RwKw but it is on their computer and I saw it for myself which is enough proof for me.

Just remember guys I am down here at the coast, so even if you are boosting a 1Bar for say, You are still getting about 7-8% less air.

Do yourself a favour, go look at the forums on www.nissansilvia.com . These guy know what they are talking about and will be able to help you with anything you need.

Down here the nissan guys test the std sx at an average of 83kw on the wheels, but say at see level 90, you jumped around 70kw on the wheels with your mods, dam that's alot, I wish I knew how....

i dont believe air density makes any noticable diffrence with any forced induction engine...well atleast no where near as much as a N/A one.

And WI decreases the likelyhood of DET allowing you to either run more boost or more timing than standard. but as you rightly say you are then limited by the standard injectors.

As a side note, since my car is running so crap and i actually have enough time to see what boost im running at what RPM i can see that i have 0.8Bar boost at 2300RPM already. While the car was still working properly the RPM's climed far to quickly for me to see what boost was made where

Derek it sound like you dont believe me by what I say?? I can assure you I am not one for talking KAK. As I said I am more than happy the post the 150.9RwKw dyno sheet as this the only one I have. About all my boost so low down you could see that from my torque curve, which peaks at about 3000rpm and again at about 5500rpm.

Just by fitting a FMIC that can cool the down LOW you can get gains of about 40%

The std turbo, the A/R ratio on the compresser side is too small it generates too much heat.

Air density makes a HUGE difference, that is the reason for a intercooler.

This car was bought from a guy in Randburg, when he had it made 143.9RwKw and crossed the line at 14.2secs, I cannot verify this as I was not there but I know this guy personally and he is not one to lie.

Heres a mod for you guys. The black plastic pipe that connects the AFM and turbo, when I changed this for a stainless one it gave me 0.12Bar more boost without me doing anything else. That s a huge restriction. BUT unfortunately that is only one side of the story. The welding came off and went through my turbo and broke my comp wheel. Had it fixed and guess what it did it agian. My own fault I shouldnt of put it back on. So 2 comp wheels later and a fair bit of money I have the std pipe back on.

Here is a link from the Aus guys. This is a few of the times they are running, some with very few mods. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122909&hl=1/4 mile&st=30

Calm down fella, I didn't say I don't believe you, but I am sceptical because I don.t understand how you get there, your water meth/inj does nothing much for your power at the moment because there is no advancement on timing ect. frankly speaking I don't even know what FMIC means, get my point, I don't understand.....if you look at guys with 2L convertions and stuff they get about your rwkw that is why I don't understand how you got there.

Then I must also say, all dyno's don't measure the same becuase of calibration and what not, that in itself may explain alot, for example dB meters- you rarely get 2 meters giving the same reading on one vehicle, obviosly a dB meter and a dyno is 2 totally different things just an example.

No offence intended towards you, I question what I don't understand and see it making sense

By making a motor a 2lt from a 1.8lt, will only yield about 10% or so more torque. This increse in torque inturn gives the increase in power.

FMIC- Front Mounted InterCooler. If are wanting one dont buy from the clowns in this country they are rip offs. I am importing a complete kit now and if I told you how much you wouldnt believe me. If you are SERIOUSLY interested let me know NOW and Ill try make a plan.

I am looking at an 18 tube aluminum custom made one for R1800, can you get better for a better price?