S14 FMIC

This is a new experience for me, so feel free to comment.

I knew that bends and pipes etc where expensive, but whow, at least twice what I expected. Next time you can buy a fmic WITH piping, sell you mother in law and buy everything complete. 😉

I am not going to show strip down pictures, quite a few install guides are on the net. Just the bits I manufactured and did differently. The size and shape of the IC will also determine the routing of the pipes.

Old > New

So I decided not to drill a big hole through the middle of the battery box. Don't feel like relocating the battery to the boot either. Then there is the problem of the wiper washer bottle.

So I cut a big hole between the slightly smaller battery and the radiator. Had to cut the aircon rad bracket, but I don't think that it will go anywhere. Also rustproof and painted everywhere I cut, including the battery box.

Close up of the hole. Note the battery box in the background.

Painted battery box.

View from the rear.

Bent back the chassis rails about 20 mm to make way for the pipes.

Keep the original plumbing from the turbo to old IC position.

Trying to use some of the old piping, will decide tomorrow...

The tool I used to cut the hole... 🙄 My normal drill is just too small 😂

The 1st test fit of the new 64mm bent

1st test fit of right hand side piping

Close up of the hole

Test fit the 1 piece pipe welded together from 3 bends.

With the headlight back in place. Not touching anywhere

View of the space between headlight and cradle showing where the pipe fits through

So when the project on the right is finished, I will start with the red 1 on the left 🙄

Some more pics later :!:

Nicely done Johan, like the way you covered the edges with rubber where you made the holes....

Welded all the small pipes and painted last night. Decided not to use 1 of the original plastic pipes between the turbo and the IC. Fitted the bigger MAF on the std airbox without too many hassles. Will finish tomorrow and post some pics... Lets hope I can get it started with the new MAF 😮 🙄

Nice johan..think the FMIC is going to give you as nice gains but not as much as the MAF and throttlebody will,but every little bit helps!!!!Is there no way you can make the pipe with less connections?it's just another place where it can pop off during a highway dice!!!

Some more progress....

Next time I will pay somebody big bucks.... this is hard work. Buy the FMIC kit, complete with all the pipes and instructions, way easier!!!

So I welded some more pippies where all the small pipes attached to the original pipes. Cleaned, under cote and black spray paint to finish it off.

This bend was very difficult to get the angles right. This 2 stainless sections are very slippery, so I welded a few blobs to help keep the pipes from slipping off.

No need to move the battery to the boot... 😉

The left hand side...

Nice big cold air hole where the IC return pipe used to go 😀

The next BIG problem 😢
The space to run a 90 mm pipe to the turbo inlet from the MAF is way to small for the original plans... After fitting the venturi to the T28 there is something like 110 mm to fit a 90 mm pipe with a 90 degree bend :!:
New plan, rush out to Big Boys Toys in Scummie Side...

The result after hours of fitting a 100 mm pipes to 90 mm parts 😕
Maxima QX MAF fitted to std airbox, sorry don't like cones 🙄

Spot the white venturi on the turbo with the 100 mm pipe making a 90 degree straight away.

So I butchered the air box. Going to bend some aluminum to box off the hot air and cover the new hole. Will leave the original cold air pipe in its original position.

And the MAF wires soldered in place...

Battery back in place and clamps on the throttle body.

So the brackets for the IC needs to be fastened..... and the rest of the stuff must go back asap.

So the million dollar question... Does it start with the new FMIC and all the pipes in place :?: I had to try at least....

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YES

n1smo200sx wrote:

Nice johan..think the FMIC is going to give you as nice gains but not as much as the MAF and throttlebody will,but every little bit helps!!!!Is there no way you can make the pipe with less connections?it's just another place where it can pop off during a highway dice!!!

Thanks, hope for a major improvement... 8)

The connections behind the right head light is a bit messy but the 180 degree bend us VERY tight. The only tight bend I could find where the 2 stainless bits. Problem is welding stainless. Next birthday I will buy a Mig welder 😢 I did make a few blobs on the stainless to prevent the rubber pipes from slipping off. And those big clams are really tight.

1st impression when you open the bonnet must be that this car is stock, untill you look closer and notice all the bits 😂

Finally finished, I even washed the SX 😂

Taking it for a dyno 1st thing Monday morning....

Interesting Idea with the black painted pipes, makes it look stock to the untrained eye! 😀

Time flies... went to Mause earlier today to see if my car is still there. Seems like their dyno is working again, they where still waiting for 1 part to arrive later today.

So we will see what the dyno says next week...

Johan I was wondering what was going on.....man this is taking long, I hope it all works out and you are happy 😉

howzit johanSX . how much did the conversion cost you??? piping included?

Cooler bought 2nd hand for R500. Piping about R2000 but you can probably get it down to About R1400 if you shop round. Clamps about R120.

Next time I will buy a Mig welder and all stainless pipes. 😉

I think you should rather buy a Tig welder much neater welds and can do ally as well.

Tig is just R18K 😉

BUY! BUY! BUY!!!

Vlade wrote:

Tig is just R18K 😉

Ok, how will I get that R18K :?: Send the hat around, rob a bank, anybody :?:

Maybe one day .... anybody wants an arc welder ? 😉

Why rob the bank when you can rob the place that sells the Tigs 😂 Yeah those machines are hugely expensive, but they do a lovely job, that is if you know how to use them 😀

TIG welders are not that expensive if you dont want to weld Ally. You can get a TIG to weld everything except ally for around R1500, that is including the AC/DC inverter, the torch and electrodes, all you need is a bottle.

Problem is, I do want to weld ally... 😕

Snap I have the same problem. The issue is you need to use AC current so if you have a welder that can do AC then you are on your way.

Personally for the difference in price I think stainless is the way.