1bar boost on Stock CA turbo....how safe

Hey guys any one running the stock T2.5 on 1bar reliabilly

I did the DE cam upgrade and im now gone slowwer that a Golf GTI.....WHY..........GARY....got a hiding last night

So is anyone running the stock turbo on 1 bar,,,, whats it like

I'd say not a good idea...

1 Bar is waaaay past a stock T25's efficiency range, you will be blowing more pressure, but at a much higher temp.

If you did a dyno at 0.5 bar for example you might get 130kw, at 0.8 bar you might get 150kw, but at 1 bar you make 156kw, that small jump in kw shows the turbo isnt coping, its past its range and you're just pushing a whole lot of hot air...

Donny whats happened, what cam was that?? Are you sure it was a DE cam?? Even if it was a DET cam it should go the same as it did and I doubt it is that lean that it is slower.

Donny are you sure it wasnt a Debben Standard G5GTi??

Gary57 wrote:

Donny are you sure it wasnt a Debben Standard G5GTi??

what is that?

Drop springs, mags, zorst, and nos bottle?

No forged internals, T66 turbo, nos.

Then they claim it is STD.

yeah streetrace is hardly a way to measure your car's performance.

Before you do any drastic mods just dyno run the car and see what's up.

Your stock T25 should boost close to 0.7bar and hold between 0.5 and 0.6 bar.

On the stock turbo I would say 0.8 is the maximum you will be able to go reliebly, it will give you around 4-8 rw kw ... at the most unless the car is retuned properly, then you might get around 10....with a unithip and a zorst you should get around 15-25 rwkw at the most depending on the monkey behind the tuning

:200sx_confused1:

From my Experiance the stock T25 is already stresed at stock boost levels.

That might be your experience....mine was at 1 bar for around 7 months before I reconned it, was not really needed but I wanted to upgrade the compressor wheel.

Also different situations will give different results.....those days I idled the car at least for 3-5 min. before driving and the same before I switched off the car....I am sure that helped and also I did not push it to full boost every time I drived....

Also different situations will give different results.....those days I idled the car at least for 3-5 min. before driving and the same before I switched off the car....I am sure that helped and also I did not push it to full boost every time I drived....

LOL, that wont help much with the extremely heated air charge steaming into you intake

Fact is the Turbo is beyond it efficiency range and really If you want to push you stock hairdryer to that point then that’s you decision, The point of the post is it “Safe“and “Reliably” the short answer is NO it never will be also it will start choking the motor as the boost pressure increase because on the small exhaust housing causing “Spikes” and massive amount of “shaft over spin”

It will also overload the stock cooler, but I’m sure RBSX has water cooling or a FMIC to combat this …

Thanks for your opinion...I gave mine...great 😂

Thanks guys, Some good stuff there.

nah i raced this car before, its stock stock...not durban stock

Im going to do it this way, Install chip dyno, Check power
Then up the boost to 1 bar, check power if its more than 15rwkw ill keep it on one bar, if not ill drop back to 0.8

Im not concerned about blowing the turbo, i dont wanna blow the engine though, will doing this blow my engine , I heard of impellers shattering and going into the engine and busting up pistons......

I would suggest that you add an aftermarket intercooler or a straight pipe from turbo to inlet with water/meth or an intercooler with water/meth to cool down the charge, your engine should be fine if the tuner sets it right, it must not detonate/ping.

If you add water/meth you should get more because of increased timing capabilities, then you can bring down boost to save your turbojernals from being used faster.

The only way this turbo wheel will shatter is if something hard gets into it and pushes it into the intake, as for the compressor wheel shattering for no reason....not easely.

A suggestion, if you really want to boost 1 bar, you will have to recon the turbo at least once or twice a year, save that and rather ad a turbo that is able to boost 1 bar with less stress. Turbo life will increase together with reducing other dangers.

You must always remember, upgrading a engine always puts it under stress, puch it now and then fine, drive like a hooligan all the time and chances are something will go wrong at some stage, if your gonna mod, always remember to do it the right way, it will save you alot later.

Thanks Draco...thanks some good stuff there, Ive got a Bigger FMIC
Ill consider the Water meth injection

The only way this turbo wheel will shatter is if something hard gets into it and pushes it into the intake, as for the compressor wheel shattering for no reason....not easely.

Sorry this is incorrect information, because you are pushing you turbo beyond its capability you will cause the shaft to “over-spin” to produce the required boost end of story the slightest stress fracture in the metal could cause the Impeller to explode also you could possibly twist the main shaft forcing the wheels into the housings.

Im going to do it this way, Install chip dyno, Check power

Secondly why don’t you just upgrade the stock turbo? Why chance a failure that could cost you your motor or your turbo? Your spending that kind of money anyway, I am sure you could source a T28 for the price of the chip and dyno then just run the stock management which will work until you have more money.

I would suggest that you add an aftermarket intercooler or a straight pipe from turbo to inlet with water/meth or an intercooler with water/meth to cool down the charge, your engine should be fine if the tuner sets it right, it must not detonate/ping.

If you add water/meth you should get more because of increased timing capabilities

To my understanding you’re now spending more money on the likes of a “boost cooler kit” or what ever to just save you from the first place where you wanted to save money by not buying a correctly sized turbo.
Also running a “larger” correctly sized turbo will drop you intake air charge allowing your intercooler to be more efficient at a higher or stock boost setting. Do as Draco said “if your gonna mod, always remember to do it the right way, it will save you alot later”

how will the injectors handle 1 bar boost. would the injectors be able to inject the right amount of fuel required for A/F ratio to be correct and run efficiently?

You can go up to about 250 whp with stock injectors....maybe more

Pink; thats some good stuff there as well

But T28s are flipin rare

But you right i should rather just go with a bigger turbo,
but the thing is im looking for cheap power

Does the RB20det have a T28..does anyone know

gregT wrote:

how will the injectors handle 1 bar boost. would the injectors be able to inject the right amount of fuel required for A/F ratio to be correct and run efficiently?

injectors are at 80% duty cycle at 0.8 as fas as i know