gotech functionality in your nissan ecu!

hi all,

thought some of you might be interested in this piece of kit i just got from
the good old usa this weekend..

http://thumbnails.imajr.com/25052008210-1037832.jpg

this brilliant piece of hardware emulates your eprom (where the management's maps/tables/running code is kept) inside your standard nissan ecu , meaning you plug it in the place of the eprom.

then, connecting it to your laptop via usb, using software like nistune or tunerpro , this gives you absolute control over your standard nissan ecu
in real time! rendering it effectively aftermarket 😮

all parameters of your standard ecu can be changed on the dyno, changes to fuel maps, ignition , different maf's , bigger injectors, ect.
this is in many ways better than a aftermarket system like gotech:

better resolution, not having to touch any of the engine sensors,
keeping fancy standard features like knock control, closed loop running ect.
downside is you wont have features like launch control ect. offered by
aftermarket ecu's, and of course a lot of dyno operators will just look at you blankly when asked to tune this..

experimenting with this on my 300zx at the moment, must say im very impressed .. gotta love technology 8)

nistune software
http://www.nistune.com/

ostrich
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=169

Damn dude thanks for the info

This is awesome info.
@Gary
What you think?
Chem 8)

Chem I would like to see the peramiters of the software with regards to how many load sites and rpm site for tuning. Also you cant get rid of the MAF, so you are still limited to 170RwKw or so unless you upgrade. Is it on the fly or still like tuning an eeprom??

What does the hardware and software cost 300sx??

I perfer these over stand alone's very much like the bikirom's etc.
Keeps things stock and tidy, you can also still use you nissan manual to troubleshoot and not need to take it to a tuner every time...

Yeah Sokar for the home DIYer I think it is better for the very reason you said, you can use the FSM to diagnose. Other than that I think they are inferior to a GOOD standalone because they rarely give you the complete control and flexiblity a stand alone does.

Gary57 wrote:

Yeah Sokar for the home DIYer I think it is better for the very reason you said, you can use the FSM to diagnose. Other than that I think they are inferior to a GOOD standalone because they rarely give you the complete control and flexiblity a stand alone does.

Yeah, I agree, a nicely installed and tuned Microtech, Wolf 3d etc should be able to out perform, but this is a nice bridge for the gap in-between and a good alternative to the Dicktator etc out there.

Yes very true that. When one of these systems can make use of a 0-5v MAP over the 0-5v MAF I think we will start to see alot more of these systems around.

How do you find the Tator on your SR??

Pleasantly surprised, the car is running well, cold idle is an issue, but I'm happy with the current fuel consumption, power and driveability.

I might keep it a bit, but I will probably be looking to change it in the near future...

But you can sort the cold start out very easily.

All in good time, only got it on saturday 😛

Yes, I want to get rid of the afm and old coils. So then gotech or what ever is the answer. My idea is to get rid of all these thingies. Dustbin stories! I am not so lekka impressed with this 60-2 teeth wheeltjie thing that VC is now fitting. Meaning my mods will never stop. The CAS pick up situation signal for the EMS. May be we need Louis from Gotech to write an article for us on the compatibility and other issues.
Chem 8)

Chem run Dicktator, you can use CAS as trigger and just run wasted spark and banked injectors. If you are getting rid of coil packs then wasted spark is nothing to scared of, get yourself a nice BIG coil. The dicktator can also switch your water/meth.

Thanks, I follow that. But some dude previously mentioned wasted spark is another problem that you involved with? It is just like any one else, after hearing all opinions, I like the gotech. BTW, I emailed Louis from Gotech and asked him a few questions. I will then attach his reply on this forum.
Chem 8)

There is nothing wrong with wasted spark providing you have a strong enough spark.

Sorry to say VC but I prefer the Tator to Gotech and if it were my car I would fit the Tator every time.

Hey guys, I mentioned the NISTune setup the other day in the Dicktator thread.

Have a look at the website there, with a daughter board the tuning is real time.

I downloaded the software to have a look at, it allows you to open a trial version that cant change or save anything, but the maps look to be 16x16 for fuel and ignition, and have all the parameters available in the factory tuning. It even has maps for fueling and ignition when knock is detected.

The maps can be scaled to whatever ranges you want and it has common changes from the standard configuration available as drop down boxes. So a simple change to a common larger AFM can be done just by selecting the correct AFM from the drop down box and the software changes the settings to keep the car running the same. It does the same for larger injectors as well.

The software is really quite a small download, have a look at it yourselves.

seen this the other day. Very cool. I would consider this on my s13.

On the sabre however I'm running ITB's so the std ECU no matter how much you map it won't work.

One thing about the std ECU's on the Nissans are that they have a self-learning fucntionality. Does this system stop that? Because if not then the parameters may change over time after you've mapped them...

Here is some more facts. Straight from Gotech and thank you Louis for your trouble in answering some questions.

Hi Freddie

1. What is the CAS pick up issue regarding a ca18det engine. How difficult is any modifications or how expensive can such a compatibility modification be.
We normally use a lazer cut 60 -2 tooth wheel that is fitted onto the front crank pulley. The wheel is + - 150mm in diameter and about 6mm thick. The wheel can be bolted onto the crank pulley or welded. We weld the wheel onto the pulley and then send it in for balancing. After the wheel has been mounted a bracket will have to be fabricated for the crank angle sensor.
2. Can we get rid of the 17 year old coils, If I wish to do so, and what you recommend we replace the coils and the method behind it.
The cheapest route is to use a universal coil pack that can be mounted in the engine bay with plug leads running to it. The universal coil range from R650.00 upwards. If the original coils are still working then use them.
3. We are also in different opinions about wasted spark and any negative consequences on the ca18det, because of the modification.
Wasted spark will not damage your engine in any way. As a matter of fact it does help to reduce emmisions as it burns any unburnt fuel.
4. We understand that we can get rid of the 17 year old afm too.
The air flow meter can be completely removed. We use a built in map sensor and throttle position for tuning. The map sensor also adjusts for altitude, so when you go down to the coast the mixtures will still be ok.
5. Can we trigger the high pressure water/methanol pump which currently triggers from the afm using the 0-5v afm signal to produce progressive w/m injection?
On the Gotech PRO X ecu there is a throttle switch output that can be used for methanol or nitrous. The output is configurable to swith on at a certain RPM or boost or TPS value.
6. What is idle control and do you provide for that and do you recommend such equipment?
The PROX ecu does have a idle control output for a 2 wire idle valve. The valve can be controlled to ensure that the engine will idle properly when cold/hot and when the aircon is switched on.
7. Of course the budget is always an issue.
Here's what you will be looking at price wise:
Gotech PRO X ecu: R4999.00
Universal 60 -2 wheel and sensor: R850.00
We can offer discounts for group buy's of 10 units or more.
Please contact me if you need any other info.
Regards Louis

Sokar wrote:

Keeps things stock and tidy

TIDY???

have you seen the engine bay of a stock car??? no ways those things are neat - no matter how many engine covers you slap on top!!!

ok..

lemme see if i can lay this wasted spark thing to rest.. 🙂

the individial coil packs on each cylinder of your nissan motor was a BRILLIANT decision by nissan engineers, a idea way ahead of its time , and
very expensive to implement. sure they give trouble 18 years down the line, but they tried to build the best performance motors they could..
why did they do it?
simple, as rpm goes up, charge time for the coil goes down.. so they used 4 powerfull coils, to maximise charge time for each spark event.. as a side benefit no HT leads ect. less rf noise too..

anyhoo, if you use these coils in a wasted spark setup (with which there is nothing wrong !) the only way to wire them is like this :

http://thumbnails.imajr.com/COIL-1.bmp-1039199.jpg

problem is, now you are splitting the ignitor current in two.. less current to charge each coil = less spark = misfires at higer rpm

this is why louis recomends coilpacks, these come from cars that was designed to run wasted spark, like some of the newer alfas, vr6 ect.
these are simply coils of which the secondary winding's both sides each go to a sparkplug , which has the strange effect of the spark on the one sparkplug jumping from center electrode to base, and from base to center
on the other 🙂
btw, this has absolutely no impact on the combustion process, a spark is a spark, no matter which way it jumps

http://thumbnails.imajr.com/COIL-2.bmp-1039200.jpg

on these coils the current does not have to be split, its kinda like a two pronged coil..

if of course you have a ecu with four ignition outputs, this becomes a moot point.. bringing us back to the realization of how advanced this stuff was for its time.. why do oem not use this idea so often anymore?
not because it is a crap idea, but simply because it is expensive to implement (needs a complex ecu too)

yeah yeah , i know .. i love me nissan's 8)