Ok so I have a major issue of heat soak. The other day I took RBSX for a ride in my car and it felt kak. This morning I floored it and it went like it should go, so I think I need to rid some engine bay heat.
Now I dont want to lift the rear of the bonnet or cut into the fender, so any other ideas will be much appriciated.
Pink I dont want to turn this thread into a fight but I would really appreciate your input into this matter.
Hay Im not the bad person here, I dont want to fight 8) 8) 8)
But what is heat soaking? Your Intake? The fuel? Your Intercooler?
How do you know its heat soak? Sorry for asking not being rude
Insulate all the hot pipes and heat reflector tape all the cold ones. That should be a start.
Build a box for your filter so that it only gets cold air????
Vent your bonnet?
Run water/meth?
I am only speculating its heat soak. The AFR stay where they should so does the timing but on a hot day it doesnt pull aswell as it should. I am running a cone filter which draws from the engine bay, but cant really isolate it because my w/m pump and piping is right there by it.
If I open the bonnet after a shorttrip in traffic there is a lot of heat in there, the viscous blows it right into my face and it is warm.\
When I get onto the freeway (moving air) the intercoller drops the IAT big time, but I want to prevent to soak in the first place.
Hanco I have w/m injection already.
mmm, ok take a long piece of consertina pipe and take it to where the stock intercooler vent was, fit it there and take the pipe right to the cone filter, try to isolate the filter somehow and get cold air onto the filter.
If you still have that rubber pipe that runs from the turbo to the AFM make a plan by taking that out and getting a nice pollished stainless steel one, that black rubber loves heat!
Come on Gary try some mad stuff, we as engineers are known for trying the crazy stuff!
mmm, ok take a long piece of consertina pipe and take it to where the stock intercooler vent was, fit it there and take the pipe right to the cone filter, try to isolate the filter somehow and get cold air onto the filter.
I had this but since the bigger intercooler I havent fitted one back, also the w/m pump sit above the stock intercooler hole (which I have already cut bigger). But Yes I think this will be a good start.
If you still have that rubber pipe that runs from the turbo to the AFM make a plan by taking that out and getting a nice pollished stainless steel one, that black rubber loves heat!
No boet the heat dissapation difference of rubber vs stainless is HUGE, rubber is probably the better but doesnt look as cool. Stainless LOVE heat.
Mine now is aluminum cause the stock rubber is too small and the wire inside is a huge restriction.
Chem: What about putting a secondary w/m nozzle straight after the turbo, this would cool the whole air duct. I would think a small one, maybe 60cc??
You could go with a CAI like I am using but the water meth should keep heat soak in check.
You could try putting a Fan with a temp switch on the IC core
What CAI do you have??
I have thought about mounting 2 x 12" fans to the IC but then you are just loading the alternator. So the gains will be less.
Move to the north pole!
Get that CRyo2 kit that shoots that cold stuff on your IC. It also runs through a little pipe that runs though your intake and/or the TB. And lastly it has a housing that your fuel lines runs through to cool down the fuel temps.
Together with a cold air compartment for your filter you should be all set.
Oh I think you should move your W/M system away from the filter so you can block it off etc.
And vent the bonnet.
I'd stay away from that exhaust wrap stuff. Looks horrible and ghetto - no offence. Rather save up and Ceramic coat the ex-manifold.
Yeah I have thought of venting the bonnet but I havent seen a decent looking vent yet that would stockish.
I think for now I will try the ram air from the bumper and see how it goes.
Chem: What about putting a secondary w/m nozzle straight after the turbo, this would cool the whole air duct. I would think a small one, maybe 60cc??
Gary, no. I think in your case it will be a waste. For me without fmic yes.
Dont modify, rectify. I lifted my bonnet( hmmmm... also modified), you know that, and it looks like lots of sx's all over doing it. Eventually I will end up with vents.
That filter, we are not going to start the filter issue again. Isolate it.
Chem 8)
He he well I think thats the best hay, everyone says so!
yeah i reckon a nice filter box would be awesome. make it with CF if you can - just for looks.
cant you move the WM to the boot??? i ask cos i've seen a few setups like this, although i'm not sure of the pros/cons!
i know we spoke about this, but other dudes could use the idea. because my boot has gone super smooth (even the wiper is gone now), i dont have a use for the rear water nozzle. when my roof goes black, that nozzle is also going to the bin.
so my idea is using the 2nd water pump (the one for the rear nozzle), and rerouting the water pipes and a nice mistifying (!?) nozzle, or set of nozzles, to spray water from the bottle to the intercooler? you could even use the stock rear wiper button to trigger the water spray - or an output from your AM ECU!!!???
as for vents, what of the TRD supra style vents. flat holes cut out and covered with body coloured (or is that black) mesh? hmmm... might not look that good with a white car!
actually - scratch that - it looks awesome in white!!!
i was wondering about your new gross avatar - then i realised...
ITS RIAAN CRUYWAGEN!!!
VC that one rectangle vent looks great but how does it stop water going into it when it rains or when you wash your car??
Chemcool.....I know you disagree with what I am going to say but I think it is something that can be tried because we are in a different invironment than the guys over seas, Gary, I would say take a chance, do a test, try the second nozzle and see how it works or the other thing you can try is increasing the pressure on your pump setting and maybe trying to get it to come in earlier, but I remember you having a problem at some stage because it came in too soon, I want to remind you of something, a few days back you upped the timing on vacuum and so on, try bringing your meth in earlyer because of that and see what happens....
I had the normal nozzel with the normal pressure to the nozzel, boosting 1.4 bar, the guys in witbank dynod it like that, I came back to pretoria and decided 1.4 bar is madness, I increased my pressure to the nozzel and set it to come in at about 0.7 bar and tuned down my boost.
I went to a dyna place here in PTA, got the car on the dyna, we dynad the car on 0.9 bar and I got the same figure.....
What I am trying to say is I played alot with the settings and I gained by boosting less for the same power, play around, record your tests as best as you can, you might be surptised......
Also I have thaught of this alot before I sold the car, water/meth helps alot but in most cases we inject warm mixstures, because of hot temps in the engine bay and where ever you mount your mixture bottle, what if you could somehow cool down your mixture injecting into the manifold.....I think there would be huge gains in affectiveness and maybe even power.....I never got round to doing this.....maybe it could help you....
Yeah draco I think a nozzle earlier would be great because it would cool down the stainless piping going to the FMIC. This will help fight the heat soak greatly. I can simply get the pump to come in earlier but as soon as I tap off Im back to hot air. Also my issue is I dont have a variable w/m controller, so I inject all or nothing. I have a 225cc nozzle which comes in at 3000rpm and over 0.5Bar boost, and on some days I can feel quenching.
Ideally I would need to expel the hot air in the engine bay, especailly from the tubular manifold. Next best thing I think is to cool down the charge pipes after the turbo and give the turbo some fresh air to breathe.
Doctor G wrote:
Get that CRyo2 kit that shoots that cold stuff on your IC. It also runs through a little pipe that runs though your intake and/or the TB. And lastly it has a housing that your fuel lines runs through to cool down the fuel temps.
Together with a cold air compartment for your filter you should be all set.
Oh I think you should move your W/M system away from the filter so you can block it off etc.
And vent the bonnet.
I'd stay away from that exhaust wrap stuff. Looks horrible and ghetto - no offence. Rather save up and Ceramic coat the ex-manifold.
+1
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