What do you need for a 350kW SR20DET?

Hi there,

I would like to know the kind of parts you would need to get 350kW from the SR20DET motor. Also, can you fill me in on the cost; like pistons, conrods, valve springs, etc.

Thanks

Off the top of my head, forged pistons and rods, 550cc up injectors, management, cams, bigger turbo, headwork. Basically everything....

Cost I'd say around R40k - 70k depending on who you know and where you go.

I'd say put a RB25 in for that price.....

I agree with Sokar but then its not quite 350Kw

Gary57 wrote:

I agree with Sokar but then its not quite 350Kw

Bruno's stock RB25 at 0.5 bar is 200kw on the wheels. Bigger turbo and a bit more boost on that you should see 270kw..... 😛

If you talking Flywheel KW then a normal SR20DET is fine. DET's have pretty stong internals from the factory. Balanced bottom ends, 8cw cranks. Beefy rods etc.

AFAIK SR20DET's can take up to 500hp at the fly on stock internals. That's 373kw.

So basically all you need is a fresh SR20DET with some headwork, cams and all the required mods to run a turbo capable of getting you to that figure.

Unless you're running management a upgraded MAF will be needed.

Upgraded Fuel pump without a doubt.

i know a dude that was running a 200rwkw low boost sr20det.

he sold that motor for a steal when you add up the costs on the parts list.

i say sokar advice of 40k plus is very true!

doesn't japspec's sr20det make that kind of power??? maybe he could help!

Cost I'd say around R40k - 70k depending on who you know and where you go.

I'd say put a RB25 in for that price.....

i am sure 70k you can get 350rwkw of a rb25 transplant maybe more

Thanks for all the info guys, can you give me a guestimate as to what the kilowatts would be with;

1) upgraded conrods
2) upgraded pistons
3) bigger injectors
4) bigger FMIC
5) T4 Turbo
5) upgraded oil cooler
6) better exhaust (what size should it be)
7) Gotech engine mangement
8) ...what ever other niggly bits required to go with setup

yip on one of the posts with a dyno graph, japspec's made 350 odd at low boost for that kind of motor - but i think he has spent lots - isn't most of his stuff greddy...

i hear even the petrol he uses comes from greddy...lol

350 wheels or fly?

big difference.... and then there is that one word. reliability.... puts cost estimates right out the window.

from a stock sx to 350 to 400 fly... leka big bucks if you want it to be proper stuff with reliability.

40k to 70k.... I can fill that up like quik quik and then you don't evan have the bigger turbo.

don't ask what you need to make that power, rather tell us what your budget is, and then one can help you with how to get there with a certain projected budget.

I say, keep it SR 20det..... thats what the sx is all about for me. I could of done Rb one shot with the bucks I've spent, chose not to, plus its lighter etc. SR20det is enough.

conrods and pistons don't make power. (if done right will make engine last longer with more power)

injectors, FMIC, turbo, exhaust, oil temp all help with power, but....🙂

You forgetting one/two important thing(s) - flow (head work) and off course timing. (cams)

the effectiveness of air entering the motor and gasses exiting the motor is most important

for the right power you also need the right turbo - ball bearing (obviously here the more you pay the more you get in my opinion)

I agree with Myprodol...budget...

but also remember...you may even make better power with a small turbo with better "in" and "out" flow

T4 does seem large however - spoolup time will be delayed a lot...

I am now tired of my 1300cc engine up to 3500 rpm that switches to 3000cc engine at full boost...

double post

ReeceZ wrote:

Thanks for all the info guys, can you give me a guestimate as to what the kilowatts would be with;

1) upgraded conrods
2) upgraded pistons
3) bigger injectors
4) bigger FMIC
5) T4 Turbo
5) upgraded oil cooler
6) better exhaust (what size should it be)
7) Gotech engine mangement
8) ...what ever other niggly bits required to go with setup

How long is a piece of string...

You could theoretically get 20kw, 200w or 2000kw out of that parts list...

ReeceZ wrote:

Thanks for all the info guys, can you give me a guestimate as to what the kilowatts would be with;

1) upgraded conrods
2) upgraded pistons
3) bigger injectors
4) bigger FMIC
5) T4 Turbo
5) upgraded oil cooler
6) better exhaust (what size should it be)
7) Gotech engine mangement
8) ...what ever other niggly bits required to go with setup

you need to pay attention to these departments.... if you want to make at least 400 fly reliably.

pistons,
sleeves, rods, studs,
headwork like: valves retainers,
machine working, rocker stoppers, cams,
cam gears,
oil pump, water pump - a must if you want to do a rebuild, those two are a must.... no need in spending so much money and then your stock water or oil pump packs up and screws your whole build.
engine mounts, trans mounts,
upgraded clutch, flywheel drive-shaft,
cooler, proper fuel setup, injectors, fuel pump, regulator, fuel management.
turbo, turbo branch, wastegate, down pipe setup, freeflow,
coilpacks (stock ones pack up and cut out on HIGH Boost big power applications.)
turbo braided hoses.
boost controller, gauges etc.
etc etc.
so much much more..... these are just general things.

Its worth it doing things to the max and doing everything right, expensive, but reliable.

thats why you should rather look at what budget you have and then try to see what you can do.

What am I typing in invisible ink? 😮 :x

There are many examples on the net but here is one off the bat. Over 525whp (yeah that's 390wkw or around 450kw to the fly on a stock bottom end)

It all comes down to knowing where to spend the money and how to tune.

http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/phase2racecar.html

*UPDATE** 1.3 bar generated 388rwhp on pump gas (91 octane!)- overall air/fuel ratio 11.0:1. Slightly leaner ratio with higher boost level, push beyond 400rwhp on stock motor is within reach. (FYI: The motor that's in the car right now is no different than the average SR20DET frontclip everyone gets, this proves the SR20 is a very capable motor. However, since this car will probably not see public road, we still recommend keeping the HP tame for reliablity reasons).

5/15/03 - Fixed the misfire problem, mix in some 104 high octane race gas, turn the boost up to 20-21psi generated 422rwhp! ** UPDATE *** 25psi generated 474rwhp!!

6/21/03 - Car is waiting for custom roll cage done along with waiting for drag wheels/tires. In the mean time since we are bored we will be pushing the car to 500rwhp on stock block see if it holds for fun.

6/24/03 - The 500rwhp barrier is met. XS was able to achieve a solid run of 503rwhp, 525rwhp was the highest. At this time above 500rwhp the car is maxing out the Z32 MAF. Down the road would have to switch the PFC to the D-Jetro version. It's amazing how much power the stock bottom holds for over 40+ dyno passes now each time at above 400rwhp range, but we have finally shattered the rumor that SR20DET can not exceed 400rwhp without some engine building. Just want to say that reaching this kind of HP is not easy, and certainly now for anyone to just turn the knob on their boost controller. Without precise tuning and fuel system, the SR motor can still blow up just like popcorn in a microwave.*

😉 Hey, thanks alot you guys, great advice. I'm looking to drop 15K on the motor, i guess 350kW is a long way away on that budget. I'd like to have a strong hi revving motor. Something I can cruise with, then punish a veedub, maybe drift with (once I learn).

Many thanks again

ReeceZ wrote:

😉 Hey, thanks alot you guys, great advice. I'm looking to drop 15K on the motor, i guess 350kW is a long way away on that budget. I'd like to have a strong hi revving motor. Something I can cruise with, then punish a veedub, maybe drift with (once I learn).

Many thanks again

I hope you take this the right way, It looks like you want the magical motor everyone wants, cheap, economical and reliable. Not gonna happen.

R15k is a very good STOCK rebuild, you wont get your targets from that.

250 - 350kw will either be a highly stressed SR20 or a mildly stressed RB25, each with a nice grocery list.

yeah - i agree. 15k will give you a good stock rebuild. for stock you can expect about 200hp i suppose.

but dr g is totally correct. i've numerous articles about 450hp stock internal sr20's. so it is possible.

if your motor is still good maybe look at spending the 25k on bolt on mods - although it doesnt seem like much.

a good turbo will set you back 10k.
a good clutch 5k.
a good manifold 3k.
a good exhaust at least 3k.
gotech pro is 4200k without installation. about 3600 for the ecu, and about 600 for a 60-2 and sensor.
installation can be another 2k.
dyno tune another 1k.
metal head gasket at least 1200.
always budget about 1-2k for sundries.
injectors at least 2500.
FPR 500.
fuel pump 1200.
intercooler 1200.
radiator 3k.

thats 39800 already. and i havent priced things like engine and gearbox mounts.
brakes.
suspension.
etc.

veecee wrote:

yeah - i agree. 15k will give you a good stock rebuild. for stock you can expect about 200hp i suppose.

but dr g is totally correct. i've numerous articles about 450hp stock internal sr20's. so it is possible.

if your motor is still good maybe look at spending the 25k on bolt on mods - although it doesnt seem like much.

a good turbo will set you back 10k.
a good clutch 5k.
a good manifold 3k.
a good exhaust at least 3k.
gotech pro is 4200k without installation. about 3600 for the ecu, and about 600 for a 60-2 and sensor.
installation can be another 2k.
dyno tune another 1k.
metal head gasket at least 1200.
always budget about 1-2k for sundries.
injectors at least 2500.
FPR 500.
fuel pump 1200.
intercooler 1200.
radiator 3k.

thats 39800 already. and i havent priced things like engine and gearbox mounts.
brakes.
suspension.
etc.

Yep it really is amazing how the total shoots up by just adding little things, I learnt that with my SR20 swap