Boost Increase (Advice needed)

Howzit Guys...

Just an Update, I finally after almost 2 I Years have increased my boost pressure from 8psi (0.5 bar) to 10psi (0.7 bar). I cant push on to 0.8 because my injector are on 90% duty cycle already.

I have changed my Piping diameter and IC placement also my fueling map I am seeing 11.8:1 or 12:1 AFR on boost yep that low my car pulls better with those numbers and in this hot weather shows no signs of DETing even on the Management system also any richer and my car blows flames like F&F 😉 damn Decel Map.

First gear is now a waste of time and second is like flooring the car on ice all in 30 degree plus PTA weather and no jump to the knock map, I am seeing a marked improvement on the cooling side after removing the AC but I need a new lower opening thermostat to take full advantage...

very nice!

we got a 76mm thermo for the sr20 at the local spares spaza yesterday! maybe they got for the older nissan 4 pots too???

Here is a Pic of my new Piping and my changes made to my IC set-up.

nice improvement on the bov return pipe dude!

Motor is looking good man. What injectors are you using??

Also with your breather filters like that dont get any oil coming through??

Your turbo intake pipe, where did you get it?? Is it a welded pipe or a bent pipe??

nice improvement on the bov return pipe dude!

Agreed No more vacuum cleaner hose for me… 😉 Don’t laugh it worked.

Motor is looking good man. What injectors are you using??

This has been covered, Sorry not being rude, 450cc Injectors

Also with your breather filters like that dont get any oil coming through??

Nothing, There was a little smoke on the Dyno from Hell when the motor started overheating.

Your turbo intake pipe, where did you get it?? Is it a welded pipe or a bent pipe??

Compliments of Hennie , It’s a welded beast.

Very nice work there Young Man!!!!

😉

Looks bloody nice.

As soon as all my stuff's sorted with the new garages etc we'll talk about the other things you want me to do for you, it's just hectic atm.

As soon as all my stuff's sorted with the new garages etc we'll talk about the other things you want me to do for you, it's just hectic atm.

That would be kick ass

What things??

Give us details, no need to be so secretive 😂

P.s. The quality of work done looks fatastic, well done gents.

Give us details, no need to be so secretive

I just cant help it I have to be secretive

P.s. The quality of work done looks fatastic, well done gents.

Thanks dude

LOL, you've always been like that.

Morning Guys….

I need help with something, Hoping I can get input from Hennie and RAW but any suggestions are welcome…

My car has been doing a really weird thing of late, If I put my foot down in second from about 2000 RPM going through the rev ranged the car goes good till it reaches 3500 Rpm to 5500Rpm I can fell the car surging for a lack of a better work the torque comes and goes then from 5500 RPM to 7200Rpm to pulls stronger then a freight train making my back-end come lose.

I think this might be an issue with the tune but The AFR through 3500rpm and 5000rpm is between 11.7:1 and 12.4: 1, I have also pulled the timing way down with no luck and also increase the timing with no luck.
The Data logging shows nothing funny but you can feel it any advice is welcome.

Just a question, while you are on the toppic. I read that the optimal AFR is 14.5:1 for best performance. Is this true, and what is the best AFR on turbo engines? a safe AFR for reliabilaty and performance?

It’s not really that simple, not all motors are the same and because of the shape of combustion chambers, Sparkplugs and piston crowns there are no perfect AFR for any motor.

OK lets start at the beginning the best overall combustion AFR is 14.7:1 this AFR completely burns the available air and fuel (This is atmosphere dependant) but a N/a car normally runs 13:1 or 14:1 AFR and a turbo is normally around 11:1 and 12:1 this is because we are using the fuel to cool the combustion process and to slow down the flame front. Why are we doing this? Because we want to make the motor resistant to detonation and the amount of heat generated at 14.7:1 AFR.

Without getting into a long drawn-out discussion the best over all AFR for reliability would be a Rich around 10.7 to 11.8 on boost, but there are costs to running this AFR your performance will suffer so will you fuel bill and the motor could suffer from some bad choking over time without water injection.

Now for best performance look at around 12:1 to 13.5:1 , this is allot leaner allowing an increase in combustion chamber heat and pressure and an overall increase in power the down side to this the motor is way less resistant to detonation even with water injection also in both cases you overall timing will need to be looked at.

So you have to compromise what I have seen from my access to the big tuner maps is they run lean low down to increase the EGT and so the energy available to the turbo change then run slightly rich on boost around the 11:8 to 12:5 range

I aim for 11.8 with W/M.

Thanx, Now I know a bit more, never to old to learn.

YES…

I finally solved my problem this weekend, the new version of my management software allowed me to log Knock via the crappy Knock sensor cell specific so I can see any knock that it registers on the load / RPM chart. So In my testing to find out why I am getting this stutter I thought over the past few weeks because of the increased heat here in PTA that I was now knocking so I decreased my timing but after a few trips around the area logging Knock nothing was really shown so I started increase my timing in some cells from the very conservative timing of 19 Degrees after about an hour of road tuning the stutter has bee resolved and my fueling looked good at around 11.7 – 12:1 through the whole range at full throttle.

It amazing what a little timing can do , I have solved my back fire issue with the increase and when flooring the car in second on any type of smooth tar results in the back-end stepping out this is really destroying my tires but I cant stop doing it

will be checking my timing to make sure it is right as well... my car also has a lil pop or two quite often and also with the T3/T4 on 0.9BAR it does not just break traction... I have to make it happen...

my question is:
1. Does it happen since the output is low and popping due to timing?
2. Does this happen due to lag? (full boost only comes in from 3500+ RPM)
3. is it the bridgestone Touranza rubber being too grippy???

Also I have to be honest by saying I have demolished some scoob STI's, modded Focus ST's, G5 GTI's, MAZDA3 MPS's... so the power is there... since if I make it go I usually have to REALLY backoff else I end-up in a CLOUD of smoke...

Note: the car has not seen a Dyno and will only get a aftermarket management lil later... well month-end... so I have no idea what the output is but estimates by some people in the know who has driven the car was abt 180-190KW...

I am actually wanting to fit a smaller bearing turbo boosting the same but from far lower so boost does not come in so violently since I am gonna setup for drift...