Howzit Guys
I installed an EGT sensor this weekend at the collector before the Turbo , I am seeing the following EGTs
The Highest Recorded EGT after pushing the car was 949 F (509 C)
Normal Crushing is around 700 F (371 C)
I do have a few questions like my EGT temperatures seem to rise slowly when the car is Idling why is this? And what is the normal range for these temperatures?
If you where driving a sesna i could have found you the spec's. Is you car parked when its idling and the temp is rising slowly? Maybe the lack of airflow over the motor is the cause off that?
Those EGT are a bit low for being in the collector arent they...
I was thinking the same thing. I think they should be in the round 800 C
when you hammering it?
Charl you are right because that is the kind of temps I get when I floor it.
EGT Temperatures from 1300F ( 704 C) to 1500F (815 C) are common at maximum power mixtures but this can vary considerably
EGT over 1550F ( 843 C) are a cause for concern
14.7 will produce the highest EGT this explains my increase at Idle after cruising also retarding timing will increase the EGT temperatures
Info taken from
"How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems By Jeff Hartman"
I am going to have a look at my mounting hardware maybe the sensor is not getting enough exhuast energy or a little loose
Im not knocking your results by any means, just saying that they are quite low in comparison to mine.
If I cruise at 3500rpm my EGT is about 750degrees if I cruise at 4000rpm my EGT drop to 700degrees. All I think of is at 4000rpm there is less load so the EGT drop, any ideas??
Im not knocking your results by any means, just saying that they are quite low in comparison to mine.
Its cool dude,:lol: your not the only guy that’s told me this seems a bit to low by a long margin, I mean those K-Type thermal couples are long so maybe a lot of heat is being lost because I don’t want to restrict flow to the turbo so a lot of the sensor is not in the exhaust stream at it might be loose
You could be seeing those EGT because of your timing lets say between 1100 RPM to 3500RPM on very light load in the cruising Zone I’m almost on 40 to 50 degrees
hey pink i still wanted 2 ask u can u feel a difference with the pully in ur car
To be honest Xavier, I’m not sure, I mean I’m not the best test bench straying into boost is an event in that car.
But I don’t see why It wouldn’t have work Compared to my old pulley I lost almost 1 KG of rotating mass and thats a Gain in my eyes.
I always believe the Devil is in the details those small thing add up over time
Yeah that is alot of timing, what AFR do you run at that timing??
My timing is about 30degrees when cruising at 3500rpm or so.
Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Info taken from
"How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems By Jeff Hartman"
se
Sorry off topic, well sort of, Did you order the book online?
Sorry off topic, well sort of, Did you order the book online?
Nope you can get them from Motorbooks in the states but they are available local for around R 500
Yeah that is alot of timing, what AFR do you run at that timing??
My timing is about 30degrees when cruising at 3500rpm or so.
I will give you light load
14.04:1
52 Degress
Bru are you serious you are running 52 degrees?? That is crazy, I only run 35degrees max.
Although last time I took you advice to advance 5degrees I improved my fuel economy to 450km/tank from 400km/tank. Maybe I should try more timing...
LOL... 😂 😂 😂
Yep it the truth, on average when driving hard I get around 14l \ 100KM and this is horrible in my eyes the best I have gotten on my tune was 11Km \100
When driving nicely I get 450km/55lt.
PFB, to much timing and to rich... lean = heat, rich = cool
Gary, to little timing
No need to worry about EGT's unless you actualy understand what your looking at and how it effects the engine, WB02 and knock sensor more than enough.
Remember every single motor is different & that type k's sensor is RIGHT at the tip, unless that thing is placed perfectly your readings could be WAY out just due to poor placement, I use it more as a reference to fine tune timing than a "i need to get to X temp"
P.s. every one of the 300+kw SR20's ive built into full weight SX's get over 10km/L,, the white S13 in CPT with closer to 450kw got 11.5km/L on its way back to CPT... its all in tuning.
Cool Thanks RAW
PFB, to much timing and to rich... lean = heat, rich = cool
In my quoted range RAW? Or did you get my whole Map from Hennie?
P.s. every one of the 300+kw SR20's ive built into full weight SX's get over 10km/L,, the white S13 in CPT with closer to 450kw got 11.5km/L on its way back to CPT... its all in tuning.
Share the knowledge please RAW, Am I to rich on light load an cruising? 14.8 At Idle 15:0 :1 at cruising
To aggressive on my timing I can send you the .bin file or the MAP
So RAW what kind of timing could I safely go up to in low load/vacuum ranges?? AFR vary between 15.5 -13.3 in vacuum.
And it drives so very smooth on the long road.
RAW wrote:
PFB, to much timing and to rich... lean = heat, rich = cool
Gary, to little timing
No need to worry about EGT's unless you actualy understand what your looking at and how it effects the engine, WB02 and knock sensor more than enough.
Remember every single motor is different & that type k's sensor is RIGHT at the tip, unless that thing is placed perfectly your readings could be WAY out just due to poor placement, I use it more as a reference to fine tune timing than a "i need to get to X temp"
P.s. every one of the 300+kw SR20's ive built into full weight SX's get over 10km/L,, the white S13 in CPT with closer to 450kw got 11.5km/L on its way back to CPT... its all in tuning.
i wish i could get that on my 148kw sx
I don’t think RAW is going to share his secrets to be honest. No offence to RAW I understand this is your bread and butter of you good work and its taken years to perfect so just putting it out there is not going to be a good idea
So Gary me and you are going to have to figure this out, I think allot of gains can be made in the cruising, Low load area’s of our maps, I think this is where the fuel economy sits because anything higher is a big risk and if you want to make the power you have to burn the fuel, I am also relatively happy the top part of my fueling graph but it was pointed out that my timing side needs work.
I’m going get some timing values from other Nissan 4 and 6’s for comparison , Most of my low load timing is from the stock map as I thought Nissan would have perfected these area’s I think I guessed wrong LOL
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