Just announcing another CA18DET rebuild 😈 so keep an eye out.
Gonna aim for a fairly budget style build here, since I just poured some heaps of cash into my N/A project 8)
In fact, this build is so cheap, it can't even afford pics in the first post!!! 😂
But don't be mistaken, will be looking for some decent power increases, but, in the most economical way...
Sweet man, can't wait to see this!
Awesome doc!! best of luck!
no dude - no harm done so far - this is a silly idea!
veecee wrote:
no dude - no harm done so far - this is a silly idea!
As tempting as that sr20 front clip is, I've been reading about a lot of swaps like that having issues and the stock ecu nor working properly, as there is always some inevitable fcuk up with some of the wiring, and then guys end up going aftermarket anyways.
And I don't want to be 20k in and then have a stock sr20det, which may or may not have any issues.
My CA has been really good to me. 3 years now and I am sitting here battling to think of one time it actually let me down. Had a leaky exhaust manifold for a while, but besides that I had no issues really.
So I'm gonna aim for a realistic 250kw at the fly, focus on the mods that will get me there, ignore the unneccesary bs stuff, keep within a specified budget and keep my fingers crossed.
8)
Wish me luck!
Good Luck... 😉 😉
Good luck man.
So give us the list of mods you plan to do 😂 .
lol.....i had no choice but to go budget 😂
i think i spend like 2 or 3 grand on a rebuild(dont ask..it was begging,borring stealing and sleeping with right ppl that mde that happen 😂
but u learn so much along the way 8)
anyhoo......good luck with your rebuild dude!
I think this is good, we haven't seen a CA rebuild in a very long time.
This will be even it out between all the SR and RB rebuilds!
WOW 2 or 3 grand!! LOL doubt I'll be able to beat that!!!
My biggest problem is a decent turbo. I'm set on getting something decent, to make up for the fact that it's a CA that has to compete with SR20's WRX's etc etc. And a GT28RS runs in the R10k region at best, with the current exchange rate.
Anyways, here goes my planned list of mods/parts/work for the rebuild:
Definite:
Optionals:
Feel free to comment if I left anything out.
Doctor G wrote:
Feel free to comment if I left anything out.
Dont mind if I do!
- 550cc Injectors! you not gonna get close to 250kw on the stock ones without melting a few pistons.
- MAF - stock one sucks flat before 250kw IIRC
- Management/piggyback - Even if you had a MAF, your stock ecu will probably run out of values or wont be able to know the VQ map on the new MAF, PFB if you can comment on that one.
- ARP Head and Rod bolts - since you are going MLS HG anyways, you will thank yourself for getting these later.
I dont see how there can be a thing such as a budget build on a turbo motor on that kind of power realistically, if you spend money in one area, it moves the strain to another, eg if you get a MLS HG so the HG wont blow, the next point of failure is bearings and rod bolts etc etc.
Not wanting to sound like a douche, just throwing that out there...
Please for the love of eveything good dont use the stock head bolts.
P.S thats not what I would call a bugdet build lol.
Sokar yeah you're right, forgot to mention the 550cc injectors. What size are those rotary injectors again??
I have a N60 MAF. Should do the job.
Management. Yeah, either gotech or nistune. Still have to research nistune a bit.
ARP studs and bolts. Definitely head studs. Not sold on the rod bolts through. The stockers aren't exactly weak.
@ PFB - I'm calling it a budget build cause I'm trying to avoid forged rods, pistons, tomei cams, springs, retainers, sold lifters etc etc.
Not trying to do an overhaul. It's still an Engine BUILD. But taking some budget constraints into mind, and not just throwing in parts cause someone's cousin's uncle's sister's son did it on his car and he sweares it works - if you know what I mean.
If forged pistons turn out to be absolutely necessary for my goals, then I'll do it. Under 6k rpm the load on the pistons don't justify it. Not even if I boosted 2 bar. So I'm wondering if R8k is worth the extra peace of mind. Cause from what I've read, if you're not doing CP's, then you're pretty much wasting your money. The other brands will wear out your cylinder bores within about 10k kms max.
That's an awesome build you got planned, best of luck to you.
Doctor G wrote:
WOW 2 or 3 grand!! LOL doubt I'll be able to beat that!!!
My biggest problem is a decent turbo. I'm set on getting something decent, to make up for the fact that it's a CA that has to compete with SR20's WRX's etc etc. And a GT28RS runs in the R10k region at best, with the current exchange rate.
Anyways, here goes my planned list of mods/parts/work for the rebuild:
Definite:
- Hone block
surface skim head
flow/port head
83.5 or 84mm pistons - cast - ceramic coated (Q: Will 84mm cause too much heat to dissipate through the cylinder bores and into the water galleries? Perhaps 83.5mm is safer)
New rings, obviously
ACL rod and crank bearings (don't wanna skimp on the bearings)
Balance bottom end
Lighten flywheel slightly, skim and balance off course
Steel head gasket
New Water Pump
New Oil Pump (Q: I know the FWD CA18DE pump fits, but does anyone know if it flows less/more than a CA18DET?)
Cams - probably
Engine Gasket set - Payen
New timing belt (Is RAM or Gater okay? I cannot see myself buying a Greddy belt for R1k!!)
Echlin Thermostat
Tubular S/S header
T2x turbo
turbo elbowOptionals:
- Depending on condition, hot tank and acid dip block
Surface skim block - if requiredFeel free to comment if I left anything out.
ya...ws a once off thing to get all those parts for that price....but a desprate guy knows no bounds lol
but it wasnt all immediate...had to wait like 6mntsh for it all to come together!
if u dont have a "race budget" like most guys...u tend to make a plan! 😉
once again,best of luck with your rebuild buddy
This is going to be a good article, good luck man. Keep us posted.
Gary57 wrote:
This is going to be a good article, good luck man. Keep us posted.
Ditto
Can't wait to see!
I’m running Aries Pistons pasted 10K long time ago no smoke, No compression drop not using oil but dripping it damn crank seal, I though you weren’t ,listening to cousin's uncle's sister's son
You are effectively doubling your power output on stock internal’s it’s your call your money your motor. You are doubling the pressure on the top of the piston you are also doubling the force on piston rings and landing like I said. Now with added MLS Headgasket and ARP Studs the only give will be with the piston themselves, your tune will need to be spot on and nothing less then 550CC injectors, I would also recommend a FPR and an upgraded Fuel-pump if you don’t have those already.
The definition of BMEP is: the average (mean) pressure which, if imposed on the pistons uniformly from the top to the bottom of each power stroke, would produce the measured (brake) power output.
Stock CA18DET
---------------------------------
HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252
TORQUE = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM
HP – 129 KW to 173HP
TORQUE =173x5252÷7200
Torque = 126 Lb-ft.
Modified CA18DET
-------------------------------
HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252
TORQUE = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM
HP – 250 KW to 335HP
TORQUE =335x5252÷7200
Torque = 245 Lb-ft.
Now the BMEP
---------------------------------
BMEP = 150.8 x TORQUE (lb-ft) / DISPLACEMENT (ci)
CI - 1809cc – 110 Ci
Stock CA18DET
--------------------
BMEP = 172
Modified CA18DET
--------------------
BMEP = 336
Pink those calsulations are based on the fact that the motor make peak power at peak torque, these 2 are hardly ever near each other.
LOL Agreed the pressures get much higher as torque is put into the correct RPM range but it still remains double and that’s the point I’m making
You can get the equations and work it out for yourself
You are doubling the load on that piston
Stock CA18DET
---------------------------------
HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252
TORQUE = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM
HP – 129 KW to 173HP
TORQUE =173x5252÷5500
Torque = 165 Lb-ft.
Modified CA18DET
-------------------------------
HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252
TORQUE = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM
HP – 250 KW to 335HP
TORQUE =335x5252÷5500
Torque = 319 Lb-ft.
Now the BMEP
---------------------------------
BMEP = 150.8 x TORQUE (lb-ft) / DISPLACEMENT (ci)
CI - 1809cc – 110 Ci
Stock CA18DET
--------------------
BMEP = 226
Modified CA18DET
--------------------
BMEP = 438
Sign in to reply.