timing keeps changing plz help

hey guys i have a problem when i tighten the 3 bolts on the cas the timing keeps changing what will cause this pls help *plus i do hold the cas tight in place*

Its your ecu thats adjusting your timing then.

i know what im doing it not the ecu it when you tighten the bolts i can see it move when i tighten then return when i loosen

Then If you know what you are doing why are you doing it wrong???
😂 😂 😂

OK do this, take a black marker and a ruler, draw a line on the CAS so that you have a nice black mark! 😂

Then turn the cas a few degrees off so that when you tighten the nuts that it pulls it on the timing that you want it!

not that im doing it wrong it never did this befor but these bolts stuffin me around

also guys with ca running 15-16 degree where do the bolts sit in the slot are they near the middle or more to the edge

poizen wrote:

not that im doing it wrong it never did this befor but these bolts stuffin me around

also guys with ca running 15-16 degree where do the bolts sit in the slot are they near the middle or more to the edge

None of the guys running CA here will have a CAS sitting on the same place as you. Your timing is set according to your mods and boost and fueling and and and and a lot of other things!

HancoB wrote:

poizen wrote:

not that im doing it wrong it never did this befor but these bolts stuffin me around

also guys with ca running 15-16 degree where do the bolts sit in the slot are they near the middle or more to the edge

Dude, start thinking now!

None of the guys running CA here will have a CAS sitting on the same place as you. Your timing is set according to your mods and boost and fueling and and and and a lot of other things!

Thats why I said, either take it to dyno or get someone who knows what he is doing to tune it!

um 15 degree is standard and i have done the marker trick

poizen wrote:

HancoB wrote:

poizen wrote:

not that im doing it wrong it never did this befor but these bolts stuffin me around

also guys with ca running 15-16 degree where do the bolts sit in the slot are they near the middle or more to the edge

Dude, start thinking now!

None of the guys running CA here will have a CAS sitting on the same place as you. Your timing is set according to your mods and boost and fueling and and and and a lot of other things!

Thats why I said, either take it to dyno or get someone who knows what he is doing to tune it!

um 15 degree is standard and i have done the marker trick

uhm then get it to 15.

i do get it but also we got to be realistic im running std timing so anyone who as std timing which is 15degree then can they help

also im not spending 400-500 for a guy to tighten 3 bolts when take it to be dyno there nuffing wrong with the way im dong it all i want to know is what would the most likely cause of this timing changing by tighten the bolts does anyone else have this problem

😮

You tighten them clock wise...right...so when you tighten them, it will move to the right a bit, same as to the left when you loosen the nuts.

Then if the black marker trick doesn't work do this...tighten them so that it doesn't move, then you take a light hammer and a blunt steel rod or something and then nip it with the hammer so that it goes to where you want it and then tighten them!

poizen wrote:

i do get it but also we got to be realistic im running std timing so anyone who as std timing which is 15degree then can they help

also im not spending 400-500 for a guy to tighten 3 bolts when take it to be dyno there nuffing wrong with the way im dong it all i want to know is what would the most likely cause of this timing changing by tighten the bolts does anyone else have this problem

Your 100% correct, set it to 15 degree's, that is your base timing, dont listen to ANYONE that tells you to set it on a dyno, It is one of the most getto things in the book to set your base timing to any form of mods or shit, wtf are you people on? Base timing controls more than just ignition timing, it also controls fueling, idle actuation ectr ectr, everything runs off that, no matter WHAT you have done you should always run 15deg base on your stock ECU, if you cant get the results you want go get a piggy back or a stand alone.

Poizen, get out your FSM read how it tells you how to disconect the TPS ectr to do it, make sure the rubber o-ring isnt pinched get it to 15deg and slowly tighten one by one till its tight, if it moves there is somthing in the CAS drive or mounting bracket loose,,, and for shit sakes dont hit the fckn thing with a hammer or blunt object!!!! those things are DAMM sensitive and pop that sensor and your in for a LOVERLY replacement price.

If your car is set up right (cam timing) 15deg should be almost spot on in the middle on the slots, if the head and block has been skimmed it will obviously change slightly.

To those of you that arnt the smarter, if you advance the CAS your car will more than likely detonate due to our crap fuel ESPECIALY if you have added boost... If you retard the CAS you will loose power through out the whole map, your fuel consumption will go to shit and the only part that will benefit is a TINY little bit up top ONLY if you have added boost, even then your injection timing is off,,, hurting 95% of the map for 5% is just stupid.

RAW wrote:

poizen wrote:

i do get it but also we got to be realistic im running std timing so anyone who as std timing which is 15degree then can they help

also im not spending 400-500 for a guy to tighten 3 bolts when take it to be dyno there nuffing wrong with the way im dong it all i want to know is what would the most likely cause of this timing changing by tighten the bolts does anyone else have this problem

Your 100% correct, set it to 15 degree's, that is your base timing, dont listen to ANYONE that tells you to set it on a dyno, It is one of the most getto things in the book to set your base timing to any form of mods or shit, wtf are you people on? Base timing controls more than just ignition timing, it also controls fueling, idle actuation ectr ectr, everything runs off that, no matter WHAT you have done you should always run 15deg base on your stock ECU, if you cant get the results you want go get a piggy back or a stand alone.

Poizen, get out your FSM read how it tells you how to disconect the TPS ectr to do it, make sure the rubber o-ring isnt pinched get it to 15deg and slowly tighten one by one till its tight, if it moves there is somthing in the CAS drive or mounting bracket loose,,, and for shit sakes dont hit the fckn thing with a hammer or blunt object!!!! those things are DAMM sensitive and pop that sensor and your in for a LOVERLY replacement price.

If your car is set up right (cam timing) 15deg should be almost spot on in the middle on the slots, if the head and block has been skimmed it will obviously change slightly.

To those of you that arnt the smarter, if you advance the CAS your car will more than likely detonate due to our crap fuel ESPECIALY if you have added boost... If you retard the CAS you will loose power through out the whole map, your fuel consumption will go to shit and the only part that will benefit is a TINY little bit up top ONLY if you have added boost, even then your injection timing is off,,, hurting 95% of the map for 5% is just stupid.

thanks raw glad you agree with me ill take the mounting plate off it myt be loose will see tomorrow

RAW wrote:

poizen wrote:

i do get it but also we got to be realistic im running std timing so anyone who as std timing which is 15degree then can they help

also im not spending 400-500 for a guy to tighten 3 bolts when take it to be dyno there nuffing wrong with the way im dong it all i want to know is what would the most likely cause of this timing changing by tighten the bolts does anyone else have this problem

Your 100% correct, set it to 15 degree's, that is your base timing, dont listen to ANYONE that tells you to set it on a dyno, It is one of the most getto things in the book to set your base timing to any form of mods or shit, wtf are you people on? Base timing controls more than just ignition timing, it also controls fueling, idle actuation ectr ectr, everything runs off that, no matter WHAT you have done you should always run 15deg base on your stock ECU, if you cant get the results you want go get a piggy back or a stand alone.

Poizen, get out your FSM read how it tells you how to disconect the TPS ectr to do it, make sure the rubber o-ring isnt pinched get it to 15deg and slowly tighten one by one till its tight, if it moves there is somthing in the CAS drive or mounting bracket loose,,, and for shit sakes dont hit the fckn thing with a hammer or blunt object!!!! those things are DAMM sensitive and pop that sensor and your in for a LOVERLY replacement price.

If your car is set up right (cam timing) 15deg should be almost spot on in the middle on the slots, if the head and block has been skimmed it will obviously change slightly.

To those of you that arnt the smarter, if you advance the CAS your car will more than likely detonate due to our crap fuel ESPECIALY if you have added boost... If you retard the CAS you will loose power through out the whole map, your fuel consumption will go to shit and the only part that will benefit is a TINY little bit up top ONLY if you have added boost, even then your injection timing is off,,, hurting 95% of the map for 5% is just stupid.

Thats funny, coz I have seen plenty other tuners do that. And they do it on the dyno, measuring your exhaust gasses and running diagnostic software with that.

and as for the hammer part, a small, light weight hammer with light taps or nips wont do anything. Driving on the SA roads does more damage to it than lightly tapping it with a hammer.

I guess turning the fueling screw should be done by electro microscopic hydraulic arms then not to damage it?

or would a plain screw driver work?

What should be done when running higher boost then?

What should be done when running bigger injectors?

and so the same for FMIC mods?

HancoB wrote:

What should be done when running bigger injectors?

dont you have to run a dif ecu or piggy back system

Then why didn't he on one of my mates cars?

Looks like your best bet will be to go to RAW and let him fix it for you!

You'd better start selling everything you have tho!

HancoB wrote:

RAW wrote:

poizen wrote:

i do get it but also we got to be realistic im running std timing so anyone who as std timing which is 15degree then can they help

also im not spending 400-500 for a guy to tighten 3 bolts when take it to be dyno there nuffing wrong with the way im dong it all i want to know is what would the most likely cause of this timing changing by tighten the bolts does anyone else have this problem

Your 100% correct, set it to 15 degree's, that is your base timing, dont listen to ANYONE that tells you to set it on a dyno, It is one of the most getto things in the book to set your base timing to any form of mods or shit, wtf are you people on? Base timing controls more than just ignition timing, it also controls fueling, idle actuation ectr ectr, everything runs off that, no matter WHAT you have done you should always run 15deg base on your stock ECU, if you cant get the results you want go get a piggy back or a stand alone.

Poizen, get out your FSM read how it tells you how to disconect the TPS ectr to do it, make sure the rubber o-ring isnt pinched get it to 15deg and slowly tighten one by one till its tight, if it moves there is somthing in the CAS drive or mounting bracket loose,,, and for shit sakes dont hit the fckn thing with a hammer or blunt object!!!! those things are DAMM sensitive and pop that sensor and your in for a LOVERLY replacement price.

If your car is set up right (cam timing) 15deg should be almost spot on in the middle on the slots, if the head and block has been skimmed it will obviously change slightly.

To those of you that arnt the smarter, if you advance the CAS your car will more than likely detonate due to our crap fuel ESPECIALY if you have added boost... If you retard the CAS you will loose power through out the whole map, your fuel consumption will go to shit and the only part that will benefit is a TINY little bit up top ONLY if you have added boost, even then your injection timing is off,,, hurting 95% of the map for 5% is just stupid.

Thats funny, coz I have seen plenty other tuners do that. And they do it on the dyno, measuring your exhaust gasses and running diagnostic software with that.

Then they must all be the worst tuners out there.

and as for the hammer part, a small, light weight hammer with light taps or nips wont do anything. Driving on the SA roads does more damage to it than lightly tapping it with a hammer.

I guess turning the fueling screw should be done by electro microscopic hydraulic arms then not to damage it?

or would a plain screw driver work?

ha ha, you the comedian? Dude, trust me, if you want me to rip everything you say apart due to the fact you dont know what you are talking about just ask. If you give shit advise and I correct it rather think about it long and hard and maybe learn somthing.

Ill give you a little help:

Thats funny, coz I have seen plenty other tuners do that. And they do it on the dyno, measuring your exhaust gasses and running diagnostic software with that.

a AFR has fck all to do with ignition timing,
how many tuners here have Nissan consults? (remember we are non OBD)

Then they must all be the worst tuners out there.

Your not far off, I still get Ferrolli phoning me for advise every month or two, and i think he would be one of your main manna there in CPT no?

and as for the hammer part, a small, light weight hammer with light taps or nips wont do anything. Driving on the SA roads does more damage to it than lightly tapping it with a hammer.

And tell me, what sort of hertz is the motor put threw on SA roads when isolated with rubber engine mounts? VS smaking a highly highly sensitive CAS with a hammer?

I guess turning the fueling screw should be done by electro microscopic hydraulic arms then not to damage it?

Again, jippoing the fuel set screw is almost as getto as fucking with the CAS, your effectivly moving the whole fueling map,,, so if you were trying to solve a lean spot you can, but the WHOLE rest of the map will now be wasting fuel... try lean it and i bet youll get knock.