Hi all!
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a '96 S14 with a huge timing prob.i built a new engine which is stock only with a upgraded torbo.on the cars standard timing (15 deg) it wouldnt even race the engine up to 2000 Rpm's.But on bout 45 deg .....
or so it go's.And there is no sighn's or sounds of the engine giving a PING sound.So Plz help...!
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welcome mrs14!!!
i see you also have a problem... but i'm not that familiar with the s14, nor the sr20det.
i assume the theory is the same though... so tell us how you are testing the timing of your engine.
also not revving up past 2000rpm, sounds almost like you have timing a few teeth out, or its running in "safe mode" or something like that???
Howdy,
Like VC said, how did you set the timing?
With our cars (S14 and S13 I think) you need to remember wasted spark, ie the spark plugs fire in batches of 2, Cyl 1 and 3 fire at the same time and 2 and 4 at the same time, all that happens is when Cyl 1 is at combustion then Cyl 3 is sparking an exhaust gas mixture. I dunno why they do that... any ways if you use a timing light that you can set the degrees on with the wheel at the back you need to double the degrees, if you're looking for 15 degrees, you set the light to 30 etc etc.
If you use the conventional light where you aim at a timing mark then I dont think you have this problem the light just "seems" dimmer as its flashing once at the timing mark and once 180degreed the other side of the mark.
I hope this all makes sense!
FYI, my timing is at 12.5 degrees AFAIK
i'm not sure what you mean about "doubling degrees" with an advance timing light, but mine is set to the same now.
it seems fine, except that the power does seem a bit lame too.
jo14 - are you sure that you aren't a few teeth out there man?
veecee wrote:
i'm not sure what you mean about "doubling degrees"
Coz the induction loop you run the timing light off "sparks" twice as much as it should, ie cyl 1 sparks when cyl 1 is at TDC and when cyl 3 is at TDC...
that "induction loop" is used for measuring the RPM of the engine with an induction type tachometer.
i checked the manual yesterday because i thought that it was for timing, but there is no reference for that with timing, only RPM.
there are two ways to measure timing using a light:
1. use the special tool
2. put a short high tension lead between plug one and coil one, and use that for a pickup!
veecee wrote:
that "induction loop" is used for measuring the RPM of the engine with an induction type tachometer.
Here are screenshots out of the S14 FSM for the loop method
Using an HT lead
veecee wrote:
i checked the manual yesterday because i thought that it was for timing, but there is no reference for that with timing, only RPM.
And to prove I'm not a paw paw, shot of the S13 FSM
But I see it doent mention use for timing, but clearly the S14 manual does.
I do my timing off that timing loop.
I have measured and both the methods the high tension lead and induction loop give me the same reading
Check the AFM. I dont know about the SR but the CA wont rev over 2k with a faulty/unplugged AFM
Daniel wrote:
Check the AFM. I dont know about the SR but the CA wont rev over 2k with a faulty/unplugged AFM
True that!
With our cars (S14 and S13 I think) you need to remember wasted spark, ie the spark plugs fire in batches of 2, Cyl 1 and 3 fire at the same time and 2 and 4 at the same time, all that happens is when Cyl 1 is at combustion then Cyl 3 is sparking an exhaust gas mixture. I dunno why they do that... any ways if you use a timing light that you can set the degrees on with the wheel at the back you need to double the degrees, if you're looking for 15 degrees, you set the light to 30 etc etc.
Both S13 and S14 do NOT run wasted spark they run sequential ignition as standard.
The Nissans will not rev over 2 or 2.5 if the maf is disconnected but they sound very sick and backfire etc.
sokar you not the paw paw man...
but nor am i then!!!
its the difference between the CA and SR FSM then!!!
because i read the manual, then read it again, then made sure, then had somebody else check it, etc, etc, etc... because the induction loop method is very easy compared to the HT lead method.
lol!
jo14 - did you come right man?
The Calibrator wrote:
Sokar wrote:
With our cars (S14 and S13 I think) you need to remember wasted spark, ie the spark plugs fire in batches of 2, Cyl 1 and 3 fire at the same time and 2 and 4 at the same time, all that happens is when Cyl 1 is at combustion then Cyl 3 is sparking an exhaust gas mixture. I dunno why they do that... any ways if you use a timing light that you can set the degrees on with the wheel at the back you need to double the degrees, if you're looking for 15 degrees, you set the light to 30 etc etc.
Both S13 and S14 do NOT run wasted spark they run sequential ignition as standard.
The Nissans will not rev over 2 or 2.5 if the maf is disconnected but they sound very sick and backfire etc.
Thanks for the clarity Duane, but what does this mean? is the method of "doubling" the degrees on an advanced timing light incorrect? Or if it is correct then why do you do that?
Thanks
I dont know why you had to double the timing because if you use the timing loop or else just hold the inductive pickup on the cyl 1 coil the timing light works exactly like a conventional car.
Maybe someone gyppoed your car?
🙁 Hey guys
Well boykies i used that loop method.i set my light to 30 deg and on the pully it gave me 15 deg.so if thats right, i dont know!?!?!?!?!?!?
one thing i noticed was that when i start my car in the mornings it idles very smooth, but once it reaches Warm up conditions it sounds a bit rough and doesnt idle that smooth.
hey guys looky here :
http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/jsp/item/Item.jsp?Trade_TradeId=3301418
SPI 028 car chip tuning interface
bit of cash, but if someone here buys it, we can all hijack it 🙂
its not going to be as easy as plugging it in and boom your tuning your car...
to effectively modify the chip in an S13 you need to desolder the EPROM and solder in socket holder (so you don't need to solder the thing back in) for it, and put the chip in a EPROM programmer.
Traditionally you would need to read the data off the chip modify it - erase the chip and write it back in... This is a tedious and timely task. There is no on the fly changes. 😉
ok, but i wasn't just thinking about standard ecu's - or do the aftermarket ones have these kinda things off the shelf?
My old std ECU has a daughter board on the outside so with a flick of lever the chip is out 😂 .
Basically yes, but they are way more flexible, you can normally change every single aspect of how the engine is operated.
The chips are merely a place where the stock ECU holds there data, so one can change fuel/ignition maps and other small things, like injector size for example, very limited, but yet a simple way to modify output.
I read somewhere that our ECU's are very very sophisticated hardware and if you change the MAF sensor to MAP based input (with a HKS module) and you "chip it" you can effectively use it and that there is no need to go aftermarket. But it is when you require many other features like staged injection or on the fly tuning or what ever that your stock ECU can't ever handle that you need to go that route.
Or if you just gatvol of all the kak that it gives since its so sensitive
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