200sx 1.8 - Tech needed

Hi There. Where can I take my SX for a service ? Obviously don't want any poepol working on her.
I live in Rustenburg.

yourself would be the best

I normaly do my own little bit of tinkering but this is a problem i can't figure out. WHen warm the idling becomes erratic, like the engine wants to die on me.

boost leak mayb

Fuel related.

spark plug
coils
water temp sender causing limpish mode

do you have any error codes

hw about a shit dumpvalve fitted/?

HE HE, sounds like it could be anything. Where do I see the error code ?
Sorry - Me and the SX are a new couple.

HunterNW wrote:

HE HE, sounds like it could be anything. Where do I see the error code ?
Sorry - Me and the SX are a new couple.

you will have to unbolt the ecu (passenger side kick pannel) at the back there is a screw

youll need to turn it all the way clockwise you see flashing red and green leds

red/greenx1 -mode 1 (ment for automatics)
red/greenx2 -mode 2 (forgot it never used it)
red/greenx3-mode 3 9this is the code mode)

one you seen both leds flash 3 times turn the screw all the way anticlockwise this locks in the mode

next you'll see the codes flash in led sequence what you want is a code 55
5x red led flashes followed by 5x green led flashes

so you basically get the idea

1xred flash and 3x green flash is code 13 ( cas or airflow i think cnt remember of hand)

once you read the code turn the screw clockwise again or switch off

p.s i dnt know if i was correct with the screw in which way you turn but you got 50% chance of getting right first time if it didn't work try reverse the sequence

Get A MANUAL.

http://importworkshop.com/nissansilvia.html

😀 THANKS ! I'll check those led's this week end. I see they mention a checker box ? Is that "tool" necessary ?

HunterNW wrote:

😀 THANKS ! I'll check those led's this week end. I see they mention a checker box ? Is that "tool" necessary ?

youll never find a checker box i made my own all it does it lets you check the leds with out having to pull the computer out

Poizen. Suppose you have the plan / drawing for making that box ? :?:

HunterNW wrote:

Poizen. Suppose you have the plan / drawing for making that box ? :?:

you can buy my box

but takes some work to get installed but can walk you thru it and give you al cabllles etc

:200sx_taz:

Price ?

HunterNW wrote:

:200sx_taz:

Price ?

i dno make a offer i cant reuse to rip my wires out

i would give you the manual but it was in german and has been deleted off the interweb

:idea: I know German. So this is still attached to your SX ?

yes it is attached to my sx

HunterNW wrote:

:idea: I know German. So this is still attached to your SX ?

O phok, een van daai bier drinkende Kroondalers het vir hulle 'n SX gekoop. 😮

😂 😂 😂 (grappie)

Daniel wrote:

ECU Self Diagnosis?
There’s just got to be an easier way to pull error codes from the ECU other that removing the kick panel
and the ECU itself. The FSM document showed a possibility with a checker-box that can be connected to
a check-connector that’s located at the driver side kick-panel where the fuses are.
Somehow, if we can access this connector and connect the correct pins to some LEDs, one is able to pull
codes conveniently without removing the ECU from its home.

What will you need?

- Small plastic box
- A flick switch
- 1 x green LED
- 1 x red LED
- 2 x 4.7kOhms resistor
- 2 male + 2 female 9 pin Serial Port connector (optional, really)
- a soldering iron, wire cutter, solder etc.

Where’s the check connector??
Here’s the check connector, with the driver’s side kickpanel
removed, where the fuses are.
You may need to put your hand in there to ‘feel’ for it as it
may be hiding in the mess of wires in there.

What does the pins designate?

Pin 1 - Ignition coil feed from relay (NOT ignition coil 1, 12v when on)
Pin 2 - mode switch
Pin 3 - ECCS relay (12v = ECCS self test OK, switches power to parts of EECS, CAS, AFM and ign relay)
Pin 4 - Green wire - Green led + 4.7K resistor to +12v (pin 3 is good)
Pin 5 - Red wire - Red led + as above
Pin 6 - mode switch
Pin 7 - Diff oil cooler relay 1 (12v when relay is off, 0v when on, switch to ground will operate relay)
Pin 8 - Diff oil cooler relay 2 (12v when pump on, relay 2 is switched by speed)
Pin 9 - Black wire – Ground

I got this from the FSM itself. There’re some other signals
that you can get as you can see from the description above but for the purpose of this DIY, we’ll just
focus on how to conveniently pull error codes from the ECU.

How it all works

Pins 4 and 5 are the error code indicators. The number of blinks the RED LED indicates the number
of 10’s and the GREEN LED, number of 1’s (eg. If RED blinks 2 times and GREEN blinks 5 times, the
error code is 25, refer to the FSM for details on the error code).
Pins 2 and 6 sets the ECU into various modes. For self-diagnosis, you need to set the ECU to mode
III. When 2 and 6 are shorted/connected, the ECU will cycle through the various modes, blinking 1 time
for mode I, 2 times for mode II etc, there will be a pause after each set of blinks. Right after it has blink 3
times, disconnect 2 and 6 and the ECU will be in mode III.
You will start to see the LEDs blinking. For more details, refer to the FSM on how to interpret/observe
the blinks. Just too tiresome to write it all down here!

Connections
Here’s where the soldering iron comes in handy and its very simple. Only tricky thing is the LED. You
must connect this correctly for it to light up. The LED consists of an anode and cathode. Please make
sure to observe this fact. The cathode has a shorter lead and larger plate.
The Cathode needs to be connected to the negative side and the anode to the positive (voltage supply).
You will need to connect the cathode to a 4.7kOhms resistor to limit the current so as not too draw too
much current from the ECU.

- The switch is connected to pins 2 and 6
- RED LED to pins 5 and 3 (via 4.7kOhms resistor)
- GREEN LED to pins 4 and 3 (via 4.7kOhms resistor)

All you need to do is put it in some sort of plastic box. Derek has seen the one i made, havent got pics of it finished unfortunately.
The only real problem is plugging into the check connecter. i just pressed the bare wires in and taped the whole lot up. Hope this is of use to some of you

Now, you can do your ECU diagnosis at anytime, easily. Anytime you have a problem while cruising
around, you can just stop by the road and pull codes. Especially helpful if you have some intermittent
problems that simple refuse to show up when you are at the workshop!