Battery relocation

guys...

i need some info on the battery relocation....
what cable should i use? do i really need a box for it?
and what connector ...ect....

I wana do this on my s 13 also
I guess if the bat is tied down properly you don't need a box
The bmw's have it in the wheel well

Adrian wrote:

I wana do this on my s 13 also
I guess if the bat is tied down properly you don't need a box
The bmw's have it in the wheel well

^^ i know BMW got behine the wheel... ^^ coz i own one!

I know you have 1
But they not in a battery box so why would you need 1

becoz BMW has a compartment for the battery... just like a box...
so ... just wondering if i really need one...

Yea its kinda of a box but its still clamped down so if you clamp the bat down and have one of those positive terminal covers it should be fine

You don't need a box, but you need a way to clamp it down for obvious reasons

so the battery dont jump up and down and explode?

Boat shops sells boxes with straps for fastening them down.

best is to put it in a box, no mess to destroy you car and it looks neat

Hey guyz, you will require 0ga cable to move the battery, this is due to the extra length causing resistance on the standard 4ga cable.

The box is a good idea to keep any battery acid leaks from ruining your paint n metal at the back, plastic box being the best for obvious reasons......

Make sure to bolt the neg. Terminal directly to the chassis at the back with a short as possible cable also being 0ga.

For the Pos. 0ga cable, it is best to not mess with your original harness, so lay it all the way to the front and solder and clamp to the original pos. 4ga cable as close to the first split as possible.

A good idea would also be to use NEW terminals on the battery it self to improve connection, especialy if the original ones have corrosion or acid residue on them...

Hope this helps.

I have sofar upgraded the existing power ground and pos. And trust me, the Pos. Harness will drive u mad if replacing totally.... Connection, connection, connection.... Must be done right, no shortcuts.....

Am looking at doing rear battery myself soon.

Post pics when you done.....

EDIT: P.S. Run the cable down the left side if you still wanna install sound. Can not run on same side as RCA's and most power wires run on the left so keep it uniform.

you can get boat battery boxes for like under R200 i think, so mite as well
its what i got

nirvash wrote:

you can get boat battery boxes for like under R200 i think, so mite as well
its what i got

I paid something like R75 for mine.

POWDER wrote:

Hey guyz, you will require 0ga cable to move the battery, this is due to the extra length causing resistance on the standard 4ga cable.

The box is a good idea to keep any battery acid leaks from ruining your paint n metal at the back, plastic box being the best for obvious reasons......

Make sure to bolt the neg. Terminal directly to the chassis at the back with a short as possible cable also being 0ga.

For the Pos. 0ga cable, it is best to not mess with your original harness, so lay it all the way to the front and solder and clamp to the original pos. 4ga cable as close to the first split as possible.

A good idea would also be to use NEW terminals on the battery it self to improve connection, especialy if the original ones have corrosion or acid residue on them...

Hope this helps.

I have sofar upgraded the existing power ground and pos. And trust me, the Pos. Harness will drive u mad if replacing totally.... Connection, connection, connection.... Must be done right, no shortcuts.....

Am looking at doing rear battery myself soon.

Post pics when you done.....

EDIT: P.S. Run the cable down the left side if you still wanna install sound. Can not run on same side as RCA's and most power wires run on the left so keep it uniform.

i was told... 4 or 8 guage cable for postive and 0 guage for negetive...

8 gauge is way too thin, 4 gauge will work.

I have 25mm2 cable, rated at 1000V 225A. would do just fine.

aep886 wrote:

POWDER wrote:

Hey guyz, you will require 0ga cable to move the battery, this is due to the extra length causing resistance on the standard 4ga cable.

The box is a good idea to keep any battery acid leaks from ruining your paint n metal at the back, plastic box being the best for obvious reasons......

Make sure to bolt the neg. Terminal directly to the chassis at the back with a short as possible cable also being 0ga.

For the Pos. 0ga cable, it is best to not mess with your original harness, so lay it all the way to the front and solder and clamp to the original pos. 4ga cable as close to the first split as possible.

A good idea would also be to use NEW terminals on the battery it self to improve connection, especialy if the original ones have corrosion or acid residue on them...

Hope this helps.

I have sofar upgraded the existing power ground and pos. And trust me, the Pos. Harness will drive u mad if replacing totally.... Connection, connection, connection.... Must be done right, no shortcuts.....

Am looking at doing rear battery myself soon.

Post pics when you done.....

EDIT: P.S. Run the cable down the left side if you still wanna install sound. Can not run on same side as RCA's and most power wires run on the left so keep it uniform.

i was told... 4 or 8 guage cable for postive and 0 guage for negetive...

Lol, Cuz, the standard power wiring is 4ga, and that's on a short distance, and on longer distance resistance increases, thus u go for a step up on cable thickness.....

Besides, as a good ground is required, I have still to see a ground cable burn out, its always the positive if to small..... Think about it in the car sound aspect, which power wire is always the one to heat up and discolor from the amperage? It's always the positive..... But yes, ground is equally as important....

today i went around... everyone said that 4guage is too small... coz of the voltage drop... i should use welding cable which cost like R400 for 4 metre...
as for the Battery box i find one for R85...

Well I don't know much about cables or specifically welding cable but my cable is thicker than the welding cable I know (actually its the same size but welding cable is double insulated so my cable has more copper)

again I have 25mm2 cable (i think that's 4 gauge, don't know), its the same size as BMW & Volvo use when running batteries in the rear of the vehicle, I checked as I wasn't sure my cable was thick enough.

you should probably just shop around as I paid R30 a meter, the "welding cable" they had was roughly the same price.

They had 0 gauge as well (R70-R80 p/meter iirc) but that didn't have nearly enough "bend" to get it through the car.

For anyone that's interested this is @ Volembo in Rosslyn, good prices to be had there.

Get the blue or grey welding cable and lugs (Ring terminals) from a wholesale electrical place.

Keens electrical sells those at R40/m.

Solder the lugs to the cable, do not crimp, the weight of the cable and vibration of the car will make a bad connection in no time with the crimp method.

Try not to expose any of the bare wire by heat shrinking the ends, for safety and corrosion protection (Welding cable does not have the anti oxidizing plating that a proper high quality car audio power cable has)

Buying a decent car audio power distribution block can go a long way in helping you make things safe and neat, especially if you get one with ANL fuses etc.

Use grommets or heavy duty sleeve to protect the cable were it goes through metal openings( firewall, boot area

Remember to put a proper fuse with a slightly higher rating directly after the positive at the battery(up to 15cm away max)

A good idea is to run the same size ground from the battery negative to the factory ground point in the engine bay(Copper is a better conductor than spot welded steel.)

I used Kicker 4AWG, for my positive and negative to the engine bay, no problem.

Not all power cables are made equally, the starsound or calibra 0AWG cable is about as thick as the Kicker or Rockford 4AWG.

Well my bat is in the back and it's sitting loose.... Never exploded ( yet ) but has lead to some embarrassing moments... Car not starting after a race etc 🙂