Project - Damn CA

Thanks, No Re-torque done, Torque to 80 foot pounds with New poil grease
Not really a fan of this Cosmetic HG , I would rather go with a copper HG with a O-ringed block dammit and I was so close to doing it as well 😢

But it fine it must leak till its blue in the face, One day of shit and she will be wearing a for sale sign...

R 50000 not bad plus the buyer can get the spares. (Gearbox, Coils , Cas, Injectors... ect)
😈 😈 😈 😈 😈 😈 😈

Vl@de hows you baby going? Did you give her a hard break-in ?

Drifted the thing today, so I guess that is a pretty hard break-in...

True, But we have to go WOT at high RPM to get the seating... \

But I wanted to ask my car has a wierd Rattle sound when cold, Its related to oil presure or temp , Becuase once the car is warm and at around 100 C and the oil presure is around 1,5 bar there is nothing.

the sound Only happens between 2000 RPm and 3500 RPm at part throttal and is loadest on load. Also you jhave to know its there to hear it.

I have learned three things on engine noises:
1. While throttle(uphill like), certain RPM can be main bearings.
2.Throttle off, certain revs a rod bearing.
3.Lifters, totally different. Not a rumbling marble sound.

Forgive me. I am also and is still learning. The above will never slip me again.

Chem 8)

Good break down Chemcool...

But If it was a main or rod it would have gotten loader by now, Also wouldn’t be affected by Temp in my eyes.

It doesn’t sound to serious maybe a damaged lifter,
Anyway my clutch is giving me more worries then that

But If it was a main or rod it would have gotten loader by now

Yes and no.

My clutch also iiritating me. Use to be ok.

Chem 8)

*** Update ***
I have fixed the stutter when cold the TPS was abit out.

But my car is sounding like a tractor when Cold and this is really pissing me off, I really can’t trace this noise.

But the biggest pain by far is this damn clutch, The problem is the car will change gear fine when cold but when it warms up to becomes difficult getting the car to change gear...

I have rebuilt basically the whole Clutch hydraulic system, the system was bleed about 10 times and there is no air

I’m going to check gearbox oil today just to make sure everything is Ok

if your engineers built your bottom end according to the specs from arias then that is why your engine sounds like a tractor when it is cold.

mine does too, and i also have arias forgies.

the forged pistons have a greater expansion rate than normal pistons, and as a result the piston/cylinder clearances when cold are greater than normal. so when the pistons are cold they aren't as tight in the cylinders as normal pistons would be, and make a hectic noise.

as soon as they get warm they expand quite a bit and clearances become normal, and the noise goes away.

its nothing to stress about, but i agree it is annoying. to put a positive spin on it, think about it like this...

its your engine's way of making sure that you can hear when its cold and when its warm, so that you dont abuse it under the wrong circumstances!!!

😉

LOL 😀 😀

Thanks Veecee

Are all forged pistons like this or just Aries?? Do u have to run the clearances they say??

Nope not all of them, some are worse some have less piston slap.

I think Wiseco has way more slap, CP's have close to none.

The sound of forged reliability.... 😂 😂 😂

Its livable just annoying

**** Update ****

1000 kms... The car is driven normally every day she is off break-in.
No noises (hold Thumbs) pulls Strong..

Problems.. Damn Oil leak, Damn Clutch issue and now only one guage works now.

Found my power problem, It seems the "det" sensor was unplugged.
ECU is now returning "55" no problems, timing is set to 15 deg and boost is at 0.5 bar..

All "cold" pipes have been wrapped in heat insulation

you should remove your gearbox and have a good look in there.

been there, done that.

the clutch plate didnt go onto the gearbox splineshaft properly, even though i thought it did. after we assembled everything with some difficulty, it was like the clutch pedal didnt want to work at all. the pedal stayed on the floor, and you couldn't shift into any gear!

no amount of clutch bleeding, or clutch loop removal, helped.
removed the gearbox (we left the engine in the car) and we replaced the clutch plate, and then everything was working better than stock!

Hay Veecee

Thank you for the assistance, yep the clutch is a sore issue but Sokar (Brenwin) contacted me about 2 days ago explaining what you just posted.

I really do think there might be something up with the clutch assembly but I don’t think it’s what happened to you guys.
Because my problem is affected by heat and I can hear the clutch “chiming” when slowing down, so the clutch is “free” of the Gearbox spline.
I’m planning a dampener loop bypass, hope this will give me extra “push” so to say because adjusting the pedal does seem to help but I cant have no play in the system.

I’m also not in any mood to drop that box or work on this damn “Ca” for that matter let the truth be told.

Phinx wrote:

I’m also not in any mood to drop that box or work on this damn “Ca” for that matter let the truth be told.

i know how you feel dude. good luck with that shit!

Hi guys just thought I would give an update

The car was switched over to "fully synthetic" Shell Helix Ultra at around 1300 Km on the clock.
The car is using no oil but leaks oil, isn’t smoking at all, The Piston slap or rattle is really annoying because the Synthetic stuff runs allot cooler then the mineral stuff.

Also now that the motor is becoming loose there is a lot of boost spikes to 0,8 bar that the greedy can’t solve and now with my new mod on the way it just going to get worse once fitted so I am a bit scared to be honest.

The gearbox is still giving issues and I need to rewire my gauge pod or get a new sender or something to solve the crazy oil temp gauge issue

new mod???

Ja whats the new mod??

Super 4 Sparkplugs

Increase Sparking efficacy